Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BC BR

Supply $1299

Fitted $1500

bcbrcoilovers.jpg

The BC BR Type RN Series Coilover Kit features 30 levels of damping force adjustment, combined with full length height adjustment allowing an extremely low ride height, and rubber upper mounts in the rear. Upper mounts are not available for some vehicle models, and these vehicles will need to reuse factory upper mounts with the BR Type RN Series Coilover Kit.

The BC BR Type RN Series Coilover Kit utilizes enlarged shock absorber cartridges with specially designed shock pistons and rods to provide a broad range of damping force. The newly developed lubricant oil used in all BC Racing shock absorber cartridges assists in minimizing aeration and cavitation.

The BC BR Type RN Series Coilover Kit is designed for vehicles in which the factory front upper mounts need to be reused, meaning they are the perfect alternative for those drivers who demand a super smooth and forgiving ride while still enjoying superior handling.

Standard Features:

- F: Without Top Mount

- R: With (or Without) Rubber Top Mount

- 30 Level Damping Force Adjustment

- Height Adjustment System

- Exclusively Design For Each Application

- Anodized Alloy Casing

- CNC Machined

- T6061 Alloy Locking Ring

- SAE9254 Steel Racing Springs

- L-Shaped Rubber Washer For Reduced Road Noise

- Monotube Design For Maximum Performance

- Fully Rebuildable

- 12 Month Warranty

BC V1

Suppy $1149

Fitted $1350

bcsuspensionkit-01.jpg

The BC V1 Design VN Coilover Suspension Kit features 30 levels of Damping Force adjustment with Full-length height adjustment, which not only allows extremely low ride height, but also gives drivers the ability to tune their suspension setup for all types of road conditions. The V1 Design VN Series Coilover is designed to provide the highest quality ride for normal city use, and a smooth ride at any speed thanks to the damping setup. BC's aim is to provide a variety of suspension setup options to cater to the technical driver.

Standard Features:

- Front OEM Upper Mounts Re-used

- Rear OEM Upper Mounts Re-used

- 30 Level Damping Force Adjustment

- Height Adjustment System

- Anodized Alloy Casing

- CNC Machined

- T6061 Alloy Locking Ring

- Monotube Design For Maximum Performance

- Fully Rebuildable

- 12 Month Warranty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389659-otr-motul-service-centre/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...