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Drag Racing Your R35: All You Need To Know About Andra


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This thread will be to provide a place to share information about drag racing a street registered R35 at an Australian ANDRA sanctioned track. The aim is to present the relevant rules for an R35 from the current 2011-2012 ANDRA rule book as well as provide hints and tips about getting the most from your drag racing experience.

Please contribute if you have some information to add, corrections to make or questions related to drag racing your R35 GTR!

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Detailed ANDRA rules that may apply to R35s (depending on how quick and fast they are)

Section 2: Competitor Info

2.3 ANDRA Racing Credentials

2.3.1 Divisional Drag Racing Licence (DDL)

DDL available as a temporary (for the day) licence at an ANDRA track and is good for cars 12.00 or slower.

2.3.3 Super Street Licence (SSL)

Permanent ANDRA race licence renewed annually. Good for cars 11.000 or slower.

2.3.4 Unlimited Licence (UDL)

Permanent ANDRA race licence renewed annually with simple medical examination required. Good for cars quicker than 11.00

2.6 Vehicle Log Books

Required for cars quicker than 11.00 or any car "deemed necessary by ANDRA officials". The log book is granted after a Technical Inspection has been successfully completed, upon which an ANDRA "tech" sticker will be applied to your roll cage/rollbar. Log books are good for 2 years from issue and the Technical Inspection dates will be aligned to the Log Book reissue dates.

2.8 Performance/Licence Testing

All new holders of UDLs will be required to undergo performance testing. This consists of: a solo half pass and full pass observed by the ANDRA steward.

In my experience, once I obtained my "provisional" UDL, I simply went up to the ANDRA steward at my local track during the weekday street meet, explained I wanted to have my provisional UDL endorsed and then did a pass and returned to the steward. He then initialled my UDL. You do that at three separate street meets/test and tunes and then you send your UDL off to ANDRA HQ and they return it marked "Fully Endorsed". You are then set. I did not have to do a solo half pass or full pass under observation other than what I just mentioned.

2.8.3 Level Two (All cars requiring parachutes)

You must notify ANDRA and the track you want to do a level two performance testing for your chute 14 days before the event. The ANDRA Steward/Observer will endorse the lice at the following points:

+ Blindfold test. (You get out of your car with a blindfold on)

+ Burnout/half pass and shut off at half track

+ Full solo pass

+ Second full solo pass

As above in my experience (including a street registered car with a parachute) all you need do is ask nicely for endorsement at three separate street meets and you're golden. These sort of tests are more for the full on racecars with methanol/nitromethane and flopper bodies/dragsters that are very tricky to get out of.

Section 4: General Regulations

4.4 Engine

4.4.3 Harmonic Balancers

Cars quicker than 11.00 require steel or forged aluminium harmonic balancer or scatter shield.

4.4.5 Exhaust

Exhaust must exit the rear of the vehicle and not toward the track surface. All turbo cars without mufflers must have two 10mm bolts across the diameter of the turbine outlet pipe (exhaust tip) at90 degrees to each other to prevent exit of debris(!).

Many of these rules show the slow uptake of contemporary high tech street cars. I've never seen a GTR pulled up for not having bolts on their exhaust tips. This is more about turbo race cars that have a 6 inch dump pipe exiting from behind the front wheels.

4.6 Ancillary Components

4.6.1 Intercoolers

No fluid may drop onto the track (no water spray)

4.6.2 Liquid Overflow

Cars quicker than 9.00 seconds must have a breather/oil tank with minimum capacity of 4 litres.

4.6.3 Lower Engine Containment Device

Cars quicker than 9.00 must be equipped with a "nappy" capable of containing oil and debris.

4.8.8 Battery Isolation

Cars quicker than 11.00 require a battery isolation switch/master cutoff operable from the exterior of the vehicle and located in the battery location marker. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word "off"

4.9 Drivetrain

4.9.1 Auto Trans Protection

Transmissions must be fit with an SFI approved ballistic blanket. Interesting to see what an ANDRA technical inspector will make of a GR6.

4.9.5 Driveline Protection

Require driveshaft loop. Interesting to see how ANDRA tech inspectors treat AWD cars with OEM setups that run quicker than 11.00.

4.9.7 Flywheel Shields/ Bellhousing

Cars quicker than 11.00 require bellhousing shield. Interesting to see how ANDRA treats this.

4.11 Frame & Chassis

4.11.4 Ground Clearance

Minimum of 75mm ground clearance from front of car to 12" behind centreline of front wheel and then 50mm for the remainder of car (excepting sump, containment and headers).

4.11.6 Parachutes

Cars exceeding 140 MPH must be fitted with drag racing parachute. "In all instances of parachute use, the chute must be seen to be deployed by the end of the speed traps." In practice at a street meet the ANDRA starter will walk behind your car to verify the chute pin has been removed and then continue with the start. I have never been questioned about not deploying my chute at a street meet.

This is definitely a key area where reality bites. The rules about when you need a chute were written a long time before stock street cars could run quicker than 11.00. It's ridiculous to enforce deployment of a chute on every pass at a street meet when tender vehicles are prohibited. I think they would let this slide until the trap speeds really start getting up there.

Another note is that if you require a chute to be mounted you will require a crew of at least one person who can be at the water box/start area and remove the chute pin before you stage.

4.12 Interior

4.12.1 Upholstery/Seats

Purpose built race seat is required for cars quicker than 10.00

4.12.2 Window Nets

Cars quicker than 11.00 require window nets UNLESS arm restraints are used instead.

4.14 Roll Bars & Safety Cages

4.12.2 Requirements

Cars slower than 12.99: no bar required

Unmodified cars slower than 11.00: no bar required

4.12.4 Single Rollover Hoop with removable Support members

Unmodified cars ET 10.00 - 10.99: Single rollover hoop with two back stays, side intrusion bar and taxi bar of bolte construction (removable) that meets ANDRA specifications.

4.14.5 Single Rollover Hoop with welded support members

Modified cars ET 11.00 - 11.99: single hoop, two back stays and welded side intrusion bars

4.14.6 Full 6 point roll cage with removable support members

Unmodified cars ET 8.00 - 9.99: full cage mounted at six points with removable side intrusion bars

4.14.7 Full 6 point roll cage with welded support members

All other cars quicker than 10.99

Notes about bars:

Main hoop to rear of driver's helmet must be within 125 mm to 150mm

Taxi bar must support (touch) the rear of the driver's seat

Intrusion bars must be included on passenger's side IF PASSENGERS ARE ALLOWED. So if they are NOT allowed then you do no need a side intrusion bar on passenger's side. Hint.

All new fabricated roll bars must be inspected by ANDRA technical inspector in unpainted state (and preliminary Tech Sticker approval given in Log Book)

4.14.12 Roll Bar Padding

Where helmet can contact roll bar must be padded (SFI 45.1)

4.15 Tyres & Wheels

4.15.2 Tyres

Cars faster than 160 MPH are required to use tyres specifically built for drag racing.

Radial front tyres are not allowed for use on RWD cars quicker than 10.00. My reading is that a R35 is AWD and therefore not RWD. Interesting to see what ANDRA says to that.

4.15.3 Wheels

Cars quicker than 11.00 must be fitted with open ended wheel nuts (wheel studs). Factory alloy wheels may use original wheel nuts/studs.

4.17 Technical Inspections

Cars quicker than 11.00 require Tech Inspections carried out prior to issuing (or renewal of) Log Books. you must get "Teched" every two years. Evidence of Tech Inspection is by chassis sticker on the vehicle (on the roll bar).

4.19 Driver Safety

4.19.1 Arm Restraints

Cars quicker than 11.00 require arm restraints to prevent arms from extending outside confines of roll cage.

4.19.5 Head Protector

Cars with a roll cage rehire a padded head protector at bcd of driver's helmet.

4.19.7 Helmets

Cars quicker than 9.00: SFI 31.1 helmet

Cars slower than 9.00 SFI 41.1

4.19.8 Protective Clothing

Cars slower than 8.99:

Driver suit SFI 3.2A/5

Fire resistant gloves, boots, socks, underwear SFI 3.3

Cars quicker than 11.00:

Driver suit SFI 3.2A/5

Fire resistant gloves, boots, socks

Cars 11.00 and slower:

Long sleeved upper garment, full length trousers, shoes and socks

4.19.9 safety Belts/ Harnesses

Cars 12.00 and slower: 3 point lap/sash belt

Cars quicker than 12.00: 4 point harness

Cars faster than 130 MPH: 5 point harness

Shoulder straps mounted behind the driver must be above a line drawn downward from the shoulder at and angle of 40 degrees from the horizontal.

Edited by MrBlonde

Quick Reference: R35 slower than 11.00

OK so here's a summary of the relevant points to note if your R35 is slower than 11.00 at an ANDRA drag strip. Life is pretty easy until you run 10.99 or quicker!

Firstly once you run quicker than 12.00 they will make you purchase a Super Street licence before you can do another pass. You can buy one on the night at your track.

Apart from the standard requirement of helmet, long sleeved top and long pants, shoes and socks, the only thing you need to worry about is if you get an overzealous ANDRA official who flags you for not running a 4 point harness once you are quicker than 12.00. It's rare but it has happened. As with everything to do with ANDRA and track officials, stay on their right side by being unfailingly polite and cheerful (even in the face of being treated like shit) and you're much more likely to have a hassle free time.

These officials are almost always volunteers and are often of the old skool persuasion. Young rich kids with expensive Japanese turbo AWD cars that can blitz their hardcore V8 Toranas in stock form often fail to float their boat. Obviously they are not all like that but the knuckle draggers own drag racing and it is a sport slow to change. Donlt give them any reason to find a rule infringement they can use to shut down your fun for the night (or forever).

2.3.3 Super Street Licence (SSL)

Permanent ANDRA race licence renewed annually. Good for cars 11.00 or slower.

4.19.7 Helmets

Cars slower than 9.00 SFI 41.1

4.19.8 Protective Clothing

Cars 11.00 and slower:

Long sleeved upper garment, full length trousers, shoes and socks

4.19.9 Safety Belts/ Harnesses

Cars 12.00 and slower: 3 point lap/sash belt

Cars quicker than 12.00: 4 point harness

Cars faster than 130 MPH: 5 point harness

Edited by MrBlonde

Quick Reference for R35s that run quicker than 10.99 but slower than 9.99

All Hell breaks loose once your street car runs 10.99 or quicker. A whole world of pain awaits you if you want to continue to race your car at an ANDRA sanctioned track. The safety requirements are many and diverse but remember they are there for a good reason.

Once your car runs 10.99 or quicker that's it for you for the night. There is no option to continue racing without a host of requirements, so unless you've already got your UDL licence and Log Book with current tech inspection, your racing is over.

You're now faced with a decision. Do you want to install a rollbar, 5 point harness, wheel bolts and get all the driver safety stuff (firesuit, gloves, boots, arm restraints) and go through the technical inspection and Log Book rigmarole or do you want to give up drag racing your GTR. Only you can decide!

If you do want to continue racing, then you'll need some industry contacts and advice on how to go about it while keeping your ANDRA technical inspector happy. Please ask here to get advice and save yourself from unnecessary hassles.

The UDL licence part is easy. You fill out the form, pay your money and then you get a medical test form back. you go to your GP and get the test done every two years (it's s piece of piss .. literally). Gaining endorsement on your UDL is easy too but it's only necessary if you ever want to enter into an ANDRA competition event.

2.3.4 Unlimited Licence (UDL)

Permanent ANDRA race licence renewed annually with simple medical examination required. Good for cars quicker than 11.00

2.6 Vehicle Log Books

Required for cars quicker than 11.00 or any car "deemed necessary by ANDRA officials". The log book is granted after a Technical Inspection has been successfully completed, upon which an ANDRA "tech" sticker will be applied to your roll cage/rollbar. Log books are good for 2 years from issue and the Technical Inspection dates will be aligned to the Log Book reissue dates.

2.8 Performance/Licence Testing

All new holders of UDLs will be required to undergo performance testing. This consists of: a solo half pass and full pass observed by the ANDRA steward.

In my experience, once I obtained my "provisional" UDL, I simply went up to the ANDRA steward at my local track during the weekday street meet, explained I wanted to have my provisional UDL endorsed and then did a pass and returned to the steward. He then initialled my UDL. You do that at three separate street meets/test and tunes and then you send your UDL off to ANDRA HQ and they return it marked "Fully Endorsed". You are then set. I did not have to do a solo half pass or full pass under observation other than what I just mentioned.

2.8.3 Level Two (All cars requiring parachutes)

You must notify ANDRA and the track you want to do a level two performance testing for your chute 14 days before the event. The ANDRA Steward/Observer will endorse the lice at the following points:

+ Blindfold test. (You get out of your car with a blindfold on)

+ Burnout/half pass and shut off at half track

+ Full solo pass

+ Second full solo pass

As above in my experience (including a street registered car with a parachute) all you need do is ask nicely for endorsement at three separate street meets and you're golden. These sort of tests are more for the full on racecars with methanol/nitromethane and flopper bodies/dragsters that are very tricky to get out of.

Section 4: General Regulations

4.4 Engine

4.8.8 Battery Isolation

Cars quicker than 11.00 require a battery isolation switch/master cutoff operable from the exterior of the vehicle and located in the battery location marker. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word "off"

4.9 Drivetrain

4.9.1 Auto Trans Protection

Transmissions must be fit with an SFI approved ballistic blanket. Interesting to see what an ANDRA technical inspector will make of a GR6.

4.9.5 Driveline Protection

Require driveshaft loop. Interesting to see how ANDRA tech inspectors treat AWD cars with OEM setups that run quicker than 11.00.

4.9.7 Flywheel Shields/ Bellhousing

Cars quicker than 11.00 require bellhousing shield. Interesting to see how ANDRA treats this.

4.11 Frame & Chassis

4.11.6 Parachutes

Cars exceeding 140 MPH must be fitted with drag racing parachute. "In all instances of parachute use, the chute must be seen to be deployed by the end of the speed traps." In practice at a street meet the ANDRA starter will walk behind your car to verify the chute pin has been removed and then continue with the start. I have never been questioned about not deploying my chute at a street meet.

This is definitely a key area where reality bites. The rules about when you need a chute were written a long time before stock street cars could run quicker than 11.00. It's ridiculous to enforce deployment of a chute on every pass at a street meet when tender vehicles are prohibited. I think they would let this slide until the trap speeds really start getting up there.

Another note is that if you require a chute to be mounted you will require a crew of at least one person who can be at the water box/start area and remove the chute pin before you stage.

4.12 Interior

4.12.2 Window Nets

Cars quicker than 11.00 require window nets UNLESS arm restraints are used instead. Hint.

4.14 Roll Bars & Safety Cages

4.12.4 Single Rollover Hoop with removable Support members

Unmodified cars ET 10.00 - 10.99: Single rollover hoop with two back stays, side intrusion bar and taxi bar of bolte construction (removable) that meets ANDRA specifications.

4.14.5 Single Rollover Hoop with welded support members

Modified cars ET 11.00 - 11.99: single hoop, two back stays and welded side intrusion bars

4.14.7 Full 6 point roll cage with welded support members

All other cars quicker than 10.99

Notes about bars:

Main hoop to rear of driver's helmet must be within 125 mm to 150mm

Taxi bar must support (touch) the rear of the driver's seat

Intrusion bars must be included on passenger's side IF PASSENGERS ARE ALLOWED. So if they are NOT allowed then you do no need a side intrusion bar on passenger's side. Hint.

All new fabricated roll bars must be inspected by ANDRA technical inspector in unpainted state (and preliminary Tech Sticker approval given in Log Book)

4.14.12 Roll Bar Padding

Where helmet can contact roll bar must be padded (SFI 45.1)

4.15 Tyres & Wheels

4.15.3 Wheels

Cars quicker than 11.00 must be fitted with open ended wheel nuts (wheel studs). Factory alloy wheels may use original wheel nuts/studs.

4.17 Technical Inspections

Cars quicker than 11.00 require Tech Inspections carried out prior to issuing (or renewal of) Log Books. you must get "Teched" every two years. Evidence of Tech Inspection is by chassis sticker on the vehicle (on the roll bar).

4.19 Driver Safety

4.19.1 Arm Restraints

Cars quicker than 11.00 require arm restraints to prevent arms from extending outside confines of roll cage.

4.19.5 Head Protector

Cars with a roll cage rehire a padded head protector at bcd of driver's helmet.

4.19.7 Helmets

Cars slower than 9.00 SFI 41.1

4.19.8 Protective Clothing

Cars quicker than 11.00:

Driver suit SFI 3.2A/5

Fire resistant gloves, boots, socks

4.19.9 Safety Belts/ Harnesses

Cars faster than 130 MPH: 5 point harness

Shoulder straps mounted behind the driver must be above a line drawn downward from the shoulder at and angle of 40 degrees from the horizontal.

Quick reference for R35s that do nines

By the time you're thinking about this you would be experienced with ANDRA, your technical inspector and your local track officials. You'd be pretty much in the know. Here are the incremental concerns over and above what you need once you run quicker than 10.99. If you run a single digit pass you're going to get a lot more attention from ANDRA officials, there's no doubt about it. They would basically have never been in the situation before. A stock appearing street car with street tyres that can run quicker than 10.00. I would love to be there to observe their reactions!

4.6.2 Liquid Overflow

Cars quicker than 9.00 seconds must have a breather/oil tank with minimum capacity of 4 litres. Would they care in a R35 street car? Probably not.

4.6.3 Lower Engine Containment Device

Cars quicker than 9.00 must be equipped with a "nappy" capable of containing oil and debris. Same as above. they would be unlikely to care about a nappy.

4.12 Interior

4.12.1 Upholstery/Seats

Purpose built race seat is required for cars quicker than 10.00

4.14 Roll Bars & Safety Cages

4.14.6 Full 6 point roll cage with removable support members

Unmodified cars ET 8.00 - 9.99: full cage mounted at six points with removable side intrusion bars

4.14.7 Full 6 point roll cage with welded support members

All other cars quicker than 10.99

Notes about bars:

Main hoop to rear of driver's helmet must be within 125 mm to 150mm

Taxi bar must support (touch) the rear of the driver's seat

Intrusion bars must be included on passenger's side IF PASSENGERS ARE ALLOWED. So if they are NOT allowed then you do no need a side intrusion bar on passenger's side. Hint.

All new fabricated roll bars must be inspected by ANDRA technical inspector in unpainted state (and preliminary Tech Sticker approval given in Log Book)

4.15 Tyres & Wheels

4.15.2 Tyres

Cars faster than 160 MPH are required to use tyres specifically built for drag racing.

Radial front tyres are not allowed for use on RWD cars quicker than 10.00. My reading is that a R35 is AWD and therefore not RWD. Interesting to see what ANDRA says to that.

4.19.7 Helmets

Cars quicker than 9.00: SFI 31.1 helmet

4.19.8 Protective Clothing

Cars slower than 8.99:

Driver suit SFI 3.2A/5

Fire resistant gloves, boots, socks, underwear SFI 3.3

But I read about a guy in the USA ...

I'm sure you did, but the way NHRA and tracks operate in the US is different to ANDRA. Their cutoff for chutes is 150 MPH for example. Their rollcage specs are different. In general it seems to me that ANDRA is stricter in the rulebook. That means more hassle but it also means safer.

Another important point is that US "private track rentals" on NHRA sanctioned tracks do not apply the NHRA safety rules consistently. I've seen multiple incar footage of people I know racing turbo street cars on US tracks wearing t shirt, shorts and thongs with no helmet. But running low nine second passes at 150+ MPH. That's never going to happen at an ANDRA sanctioned track in Australia. Just won't happen.

That might help explain why you see US R35s that run into the nines without rollbars/rollcages, no wheel studs, no onerous firesuit/gloves/arm restraints etc. It's just the way it is.

So basically, nothing has changed and we are still stuck with the old knuckle dragger rules from the 70's!

Same story as it was when I was pulling nines in my R33 GTR 10 years ago.

If you have a quick R35 - all you really need is exhaust, E85, & a good tune - & you will get 1 run in the high tens

and be told to go home.

If you want to keep it as a street car (which most of us do) then that will be it.

Or just keep it dead stock and run 11s...............that will get boring pretty quick.

That parachute rule is just retarded these days.

I remember Keir running 8 seconds in his R32 and pulling up by the 1st turn off at AIR on his circuit style brakes!

I realise they have to allow for the guy with a blown small block stuffed into his HR holden, but top end modern sports

cars with 390mm 6 piston brakes should surely have an exemption from this old rule.

I cant wait for AIR to open up with 1/4 mile again. When it does I will take my R33 out (detuned now for circuit)

and have some fun as it is already caged/harness etc.

But my R35 will be a one run wonder. I better get my new turbos etc on it and make it a good 9 second pass!

Andra can die in fire...they are choking their own sport by not moving with the times.

In Sydney you can go across the road from the drag strip and "race" door to door on the circuit at 150mph+ with no cage etc

Edited by Speedah

This thread will be to provide a place to share information about drag racing a street registered R35 at an Australian ANDRA sanctioned track. The aim is to present the relevant rules for an R35 from the current 2011-2012 ANDRA rule book as well as provide hints and tips about getting the most from your drag racing experience.

Please contribute if you have some information to add, corrections to make or questions related to drag racing your R35 GTR!

Hi Kenny, Duncan here. I used to help run v8owners and organised quite a few WSID days in the past (do you still have the 911T?)

I have an R35 now and have run 10.7@132mph in my bolt-on + tune Nissan

You can run it more than once in the same meeting... sometimes.

Have you got an R35 now?

So basically, nothing has changed and we are still stuck with the old knuckle dragger rules from the 70's!

Same story as it was when I was pulling nines in my R33 GTR 10 years ago.

If you have a quick R35 - all you really need is exhaust, E85, & a good tune - & you will get 1 run in the high tens

and be told to go home.

If you want to keep it as a street car (which most of us do) then that will be it.

Or just keep it dead stock and run 11s...............that will get boring pretty quick.

That parachute rule is just retarded these days.

I remember Keir running 8 seconds in his R32 and pulling up by the 1st turn off at AIR on his circuit style brakes!

I realise they have to allow for the guy with a blown small block stuffed into his HR holden, but top end modern sports

cars with 390mm 6 piston brakes should surely have an exemption from this old rule.

I cant wait for AIR to open up with 1/4 mile again. When it does I will take my R33 out (detuned now for circuit)

and have some fun as it is already caged/harness etc.

But my R35 will be a one run wonder. I better get my new turbos etc on it and make it a good 9 second pass!

well said munro. ill be there with you when it happens. at this stage AIR will only ever be 1000FT as run off cant be made better.

cars should be able to do a run and brake test to show scrutineers that modern cars with big brakes don't need a chute or huge run off.

Hi Kenny, Duncan here. I used to help run v8owners and organised quite a few WSID days in the past (do you still have the 911T?)

I have an R35 now and have run 10.7@132mph in my bolt-on + tune Nissan

You can run it more than once in the same meeting... sometimes.

Have you got an R35 now?

Hey Duncan! I was wondering if you were THAT Duncan! I unloaded the Beetle a few years ago and now Benny the Kid has clued me up on thse R35s ... it took me a while to digest just how amazing they are. Revolutionary I think whether you love street, circuit or drag racing. They do it all.

So basically, nothing has changed and we are still stuck with the old knuckle dragger rules from the 70's!

Same story as it was when I was pulling nines in my R33 GTR 10 years ago.

If you have a quick R35 - all you really need is exhaust, E85, & a good tune - & you will get 1 run in the high tens

and be told to go home.

If you want to keep it as a street car (which most of us do) then that will be it.

Or just keep it dead stock and run 11s...............that will get boring pretty quick.

That parachute rule is just retarded these days.

I remember Keir running 8 seconds in his R32 and pulling up by the 1st turn off at AIR on his circuit style brakes!

I realise they have to allow for the guy with a blown small block stuffed into his HR holden, but top end modern sports

cars with 390mm 6 piston brakes should surely have an exemption from this old rule.

I cant wait for AIR to open up with 1/4 mile again. When it does I will take my R33 out (detuned now for circuit)

and have some fun as it is already caged/harness etc.

But my R35 will be a one run wonder. I better get my new turbos etc on it and make it a good 9 second pass!

Munro I couldn't say it any better than you just did.

ANDRA needs changes in the rules that reflect the changes that have occurred in high performance street cars since the 1960s. The rules about requiring a chute at 140 MPH should change. The cutoff for a roll cage should change (and with that comes arm restraints, padding, headrest, etc, etc).

What kills the growth of ANDRA drag racing is poisoning the well of grass roots participation.

What happened in the 60s, 70s and 80s was that you took your V8 Ford or Holden to the street meet, had a great time and maybe got more interested. By the time you'd gutted it and worked the smallblock to within an inch of it's life you eventually got it to run 12.999 or quicker. A REAL tough street car. Because your car had drum brakes all around you required a chute if you cracked 140 MPH at the stripe (there was no way your drums would stop you safely). Because there's no way you could run 10.99 or quicker without slicks, you had to make rules about not running radials at the front, etc.

Basically Munro hit the nail on the head: ANDRA needs to wake up to 2012 and realise it's a beautiful new day! It needs changes to the rules to ensure the growth of the sport at the grassroots level is assured, not discouraged.

Who wants to cut up a $180K car by putting a six point welded rollcage with side intrusion bars into it? Or wheel studs? Or an external kill switch on the boot? Or a parachute? And how can you legally run a street car on the STREET once it's caged? In 1976 that was not a problem because street cars could not do low nine second passes on street radials. Guess what!? They can now.

A while ago i looked into running the R35 at the dry lake runs in S.A.

If you think the ADRA rules are antiquated you should look at trying to run at one of those events. It's esentially impossible with a street car. They cannot comprehend (nor want) a sedate rice burner in their 200mph club. Such sports/organisations are run by guys holding on to the past with a tight grip. I hate to say it but unless people make the effort to get involved at the organisational level, it's not changing anytime soon.

Better off planning a trip to Heathcote and/or the Temora 1000m dash.

So basically, nothing has changed and we are still stuck with the old knuckle dragger rules from the 70's!

Same story as it was when I was pulling nines in my R33 GTR 10 years ago.

Excellent point indeed.

Think about it, you can run 200-250km/h at a track day on a main straight quite easily, lap in/lap out. Without requiring a cage, chute or event a harness!!!

That's at a CAMS event as well.

Given the ANDRA/CAMS relationship it's quite surprising the rules are still how they are.

CAMS are a problem at the best of times however ANDRA rules are just so much more... :rolleyes:

Of course as you said, it is hard to account for the "LCD" (Lowest Common Denominator).

I mean there will be one retard who will go run 140mph and be unable to pull up in the event they did change the rules... So I can see the point.

However the "happy" medium for everyone isn't close however.

Better off planning a trip to Heathcote and/or the Temora 1000m dash.

And the SAU Nats in Nov - Goulburn Airport - 800m runs, with a radar :D

p.s.

let's organise a road trip to Heathcote!

Heathcote has recently had some attention to the track surface as well Duncan, so would be good timing if you were thinking about it.

As you know, Heathcote rules are also a little more forgiving as well, given they are not ANDRA :thumbsup:

http://www.heathcoteraceway.com.au/scrutineering.shtml

If you guys wanna look into it further, could organise a private day easily enough. SAU-Vic has one in a 2 weeks incidentally with the WRX/HSV Clubs down here.

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    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
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