Jump to content
SAU Community

Drag Racing Your R35: All You Need To Know About Andra


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It would be truly hilarious to turn up to Wicked Wednesday in a bog stock Bugatti Veyron and be told not to come back until attending to the following;

4.11.6 Parachutes

Cars exceeding 140 MPH must be fitted with drag racing parachute.

4.12 Interior

4.12.1 Upholstery/Seats

Purpose built race seat is required for cars quicker than 10.00

4.12.2 Window Nets

Cars quicker than 11.00 require window nets UNLESS arm restraints are used instead.

4.14 Roll Bars & Safety Cages

4.14.6 Full 6 point roll cage with removable support members

Unmodified cars ET 8.00 - 9.99: full cage mounted at six points with removable side intrusion bars

4.17 Technical Inspections

Cars quicker than 11.00 require Tech Inspections carried out prior to issuing (or renewal of) Log Books. you must get "Teched" every two years. Evidence of Tech Inspection is by chassis sticker on the vehicle (on the roll bar).

4.19 Driver Safety

4.19.1 Arm Restraints

Cars quicker than 11.00 require arm restraints to prevent arms from extending outside confines of roll cage.

4.19.5 Head Protector

Cars with a roll cage rehire a padded head protector at bcd of driver's helmet.

4.19.9 safety Belts/ Harnesses

Cars faster than 130 MPH: 5 point harness

I will at least give credit to SD, WB and PM for their intention to bring drag racing a step forward.

Aaron, I take it that WB and PM have adopted these new regs for street meets? Any chance that SD can renegotiate that particular part of the lease? How long is the lease for? :D

They have, and for every person who is overjoyed, there are some who have the shits with it.

The problem is, you have to accomodate for the lowest common denominator. Having rules based on individual cars is just way to much f'ing around.

Charlie, I'm not sure when the lease is up for re-negotiation.

The thing is though, SD & ANDRA have bigger things to worry about atm, than just late model cars that can run 10's with minor mods.

SD is in a bad way (financially) and if you think that the ANDRA fee's are over the top, you should see the rent that has to be paid & the cost to hire the ambulance etc.

Do you know if the other ANDRA drag tracks are in the same financial situation?

The situation regarding modern cars remains though, I've been speaking with other clubs about filling spots for an upcoming SAUNSW private rental day at SD (as has the rest of the SAUNSW execs) and other club officials and members are happy to go ahead and get involved but as soon as the price and more importantly the rules are mentioned they all pull out. Maybe we are not well connected enough to other clubs who are more focused on drag racing? Although that highlights the point about the sports accessibility needing to be looked at.

It would be interesting to see how many bookings SD have for weekends and weeknights (other than the regular off street meets).

I agree. It was a struggle to fill the minimum spots for the last SAU:NSW Drag Day. This wasn't be helped by the lack of accessibility and relative cost, coupled with the fact that there were limitations and additional costs if you went quicker than 12.00 (SS licence), and you would be booted if you went quicker than 11.00.

Comparatively, people would prefer to go across the road to EC and race around all day instead of SD at similar costs.

SD needs to look at its current set up (particularly toward entry level racing) if it hopes to allow the sport to grow, and in turn increasing its bottom line. For eg, if they allowed 100 cars at private days @ $100 each, it would be more attractive to street cars (particularly when Wednesday night street meets are always at capacity).

The idea of allowing modern cars to go quicker without the need to have additional safety gear is a step in the right direction. Unfortunately, their hands are tied by the government. So back to square one there...

Looks like drag racing in NSW can only go round and round in circles...

For eg, if they allowed 100 cars at private days @ $100 each, it would be more attractive to street cars (particularly when Wednesday night street meets are always at capacity).

Surely this 40 minimum cars at $200 and 50 maximum wouldn't be in their lease right?

If so, and we, as the club, were offered that deal, we would be able to go ahead with private rental days. But as it stands now, we're likely to get around 18-20 entrants and the hire agreement means the hirer (eg SAUNSW the club) has to pay for the unused spots being around 20-22 at $200 ea ($4000-4200) which of course is not acceptable.

Hopefully SD can listen to feedback and adjust their packages to suit.

  • 4 weeks later...

SD is a Govt owned facility & the lease with the Govt states that ALL events must be run under full ANDRA sanction.

Real pity that.

I wonder how the Motorplex in Perth are going with their New Regulations for 2012

Modern Street Cars Originally fitted with four Wheel Disc Brakes & Air Bags

10.00 – 10.49

Original 3 point lap sash As manufactured

Approved Full face Helmet – AS 1698 min

Long Sleeve, Long Pants clothing & closed shoes

You could take your R35 out there and run a 10.01 pass day in, day out.

Much more realistic. Does anyone know if the Plex is ANDRA sanctioned for Street Meets? Guessing not, otherwise it's one rule for one mob, and another rule for the next.

It has nothing to do with "one rule for one mob, and another rule for the next". As stated earlier, the SD lease specifically states that all events must be run under Andra sanction, wheres the 'Plex and WB don't have such terms, and hence are able to run different street meet rules.

I am sure that the other tracks around Aus can also do this (Calder, Heathcote etc)

wheres the 'Plex and WB don't have such terms, and hence are able to run different street meet rules.

Well hence my question...

Does anyone know if the Plex is ANDRA sanctioned for Street Meets?

Ash,

PM and WB are ANDRA sanctioned tracks (for all events), however, they have negotiated public liability cover that will allow them to run minor events such as street meets under separate (or modified) rules to ANDRA. SD cannot do this due to their lease. Has nothing to do with ANDRA.

ANDRA won't sanction it, it has everything to do with it - according to earlier posts at least anyway.

Was just posting more info I came across that was interesting to this whole debate etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...