Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i was wondering if someone could send me in the right direction, i took my car to a track day and it was over heating according to my defi gauges, oil hit 125 degrees and water 105 degrees.

i dont think thats very good for the engine . ive been looking into getting a new alloy radiator and a oil cooler so i can enjoy my track days without over heating.

but unsure if i need twin or triple core radiator as ive been told sometimes to big is no good.

and with the oil cooler not sure how many rows are necessarily needed.

atm my car 98 r34 gt-t has a turn flow blitz intercooler , 3inch exhaust , manual boost controller nothing else mechanical done.

hope u can help me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/
Share on other sites

Those temperatures are just OK. As in, you can run it that hot but you really don't want it to get much hotter, and you'd prefer it to be cooler. A new triple core radiator will definitely cool better than an old single core, so that will probably help. If you look after the water cooling, then you won't need the oil cooler to be too big. Something that fits behind the brake duct is usually good enough unless you have a monster engine. But before spending money on all this stuff, it might be worth wondering if you just need a new water pump (might have lost some vane to corrosion), or might be better off looking at making sure your air flow through the radiator area only goes through the rad, not around it, etc etc. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214214
Share on other sites

id say an oil cooler would be essential for track days... there is another thread going about oil coolers / thermostats etc..... Ive never tracked my 33 (i have an oil cooler and relocated oil filter) i barely see temps above 70 degrees.. even after long drives in 30 degree heat with 80% + humidity...

an oil cooler is pretty simple to put in - maybe consider it next time you do any oil change..

Edited by defari
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214230
Share on other sites

I reckon just do the usually checks before u go buyin any expensive aftermarket parts

1 check thermostate operation

2 flush entire system

3 change coolant

4 bleed the system and get all the air out of it

This will pretty much only cost u ur time

then go for your water pump/radiators etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214301
Share on other sites

suggest that a vented bonnet might help get the hot air out, do you have a mate you could borrow one off and test on the track?

nope dontno any1 with one. maybe do the track without a bonnet ?

Those temperatures are just OK. As in, you can run it that hot but you really don't want it to get much hotter, and you'd prefer it to be cooler. A new triple core radiator will definitely cool better than an old single core, so that will probably help. If you look after the water cooling, then you won't need the oil cooler to be too big. Something that fits behind the brake duct is usually good enough unless you have a monster engine. But before spending money on all this stuff, it might be worth wondering if you just need a new water pump (might have lost some vane to corrosion), or might be better off looking at making sure your air flow through the radiator area only goes through the rad, not around it, etc etc. cheers

i got my water pump changed 20,000kms ago should be ok i guess ... but i do have cheap kmart coolant in it tho lol so that could be an issue i guess ..

any reason why you suggest triple core radiator ?

id say an oil cooler would be essential for track days... there is another thread going about oil coolers / thermostats etc..... Ive never tracked my 33 (i have an oil cooler and relocated oil filter) i barely see temps above 70 degrees.. even after long drives in 30 degree heat with 80% + humidity...

an oil cooler is pretty simple to put in - maybe consider it next time you do any oil change..

ah just got the car serviced ... yea ive been told they are basicly necessary for track use. just general driving get my car up to about 80-90 degrees oil temp.

Koyo radiator plus anything like a 19 row oil cooler will solve all your problems.

would you recommend cooling pro ? or go with a better brand like koyo n blitz.. wouldnt happen to know if twin or triple core works better with the stock water pump ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214318
Share on other sites

I reckon just do the usually checks before u go buyin any expensive aftermarket parts

1 check thermostate operation

2 flush entire system

3 change coolant

4 bleed the system and get all the air out of it

This will pretty much only cost u ur time

then go for your water pump/radiators etc

This is good advice, do the easy stuff first.

Considering you have few mods, I wouldn't blame the radiator straight away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214327
Share on other sites

any reason why you suggest triple core radiator ?

Only because the China spec aluminium rad I put in years ago was triple core, cheap and works perfectly. It was clear that it provided much much more cooling than the original rad (the only problem of the original rad was a cracked end tank, the core was in good condition).

Cheap coolant doesn't make any difference to cooling performance. Only to how gracefully the coolant ages (old coolant becomes more and more acidic with time) and hence how well it control corrosion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214330
Share on other sites

I reckon just do the usually checks before u go buyin any expensive aftermarket parts

1 check thermostate operation

2 flush entire system

3 change coolant

4 bleed the system and get all the air out of it

This will pretty much only cost u ur time

then go for your water pump/radiators etc

i had an issue when i took my car to a mechanic that told me they specialized in skylines after they done my timing belt they didnt bleed the coolant through and i wasnt running on much coolant at all took it back the next day n they tryed to tell me my radiator was leaking then finaly told me they stuffed up after 4hrs of waiting around.

ill look into that they might have cut more corners fixing it up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214331
Share on other sites

Only because the China spec aluminium rad I put in years ago was triple core, cheap and works perfectly. It was clear that it provided much much more cooling than the original rad (the only problem of the original rad was a cracked end tank, the core was in good condition).

Cheap coolant doesn't make any difference to cooling performance. Only to how gracefully the coolant ages (old coolant becomes more and more acidic with time) and hence how well it control corrosion.

ohk, didnt no that about coolant lol just last longer the better it is

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390170-over-heating/#findComment-6214340
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...