Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently had my engine rebuilt using Arias forged pistons and am getting huge blow-by and a huge drop in compression pressure ( should be 120psi-140psi but I'm getting 75psi-85psi ) :cuss:

I'm told that the rings are not bedded in and I need to replace these rings and bead hone the bores to fix the problem. I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings.

I would really like to hear from anyone who has actually used Arias forgies in their turbo nissan and what the results were like ( before I possibly go ahead and waste more money doing the rings and bore hone ).

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39070-arias-forgies-problems/
Share on other sites

I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings.

Sounds like bullshite. Why would one brand (and an expensive one at that) be so much better than a trusted one like Arias.

The original builder screwed the job more likely.

T.

Thanks all.

Well from what I'm told, the people who built my engine are some of the best in the game so I'm now putting the problem down to the oil that was put in (as run-in oil ) by the guys who fitted the engine, or the way I ran it in ( if that's possible ).

I guess my next questions are...... How did you run in your engine ? What oil did you use to run it in ? and How many kms for ?

Thanks.

I've just rebuilt my engine with Arias and have to that I've had no problems what so ever. Engine runs better than ever. I ran it in for 1,000 kms with running in oil (very thin) then changed to like a half/half mineral/synthetic mix for another 500 then switched to my normal oil 10W-40/50 (can't recall).

To give you an idea of how much better mine is now, I can chirp third consistently with 255's on the back!

Used run in oil in mine for 500km's, did a full flush and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-50 for 500kms, did flush again, Mobil 1 5w-50 for 2500kms, did flush, and now its got Mobil 1 5W-50 in it and it goes better than ever.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

Same advice i was given, and will stick by. Gotta give it sum stick to get those rings to expand, and bed in.

Yeah, I also never maintained one speed...ie driving down a 100km/h freeway i'd do 90, then 95, then 100, then 105 (no i wasn't speeding, it just appears that way), up to 110, back to 90, etc...

Never let it idle for too long, basically drove it without boost but did load it up in high gears but not all the time. Seems to have worked for me.

If you intend to hit the car hard for the entirety of it's life, you have to hit from day 1.

So common wisdom is that you flog it hard.

T.

could it be that the clearances set by the engine builder were a little on the large side? as in to allow massive boost etc?

Used run in oil in mine for 500km's, did a full flush and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-50 for 500kms, did flush again, Mobil 1 5w-50 for 2500kms, did flush, and now its got Mobil 1 5W-50 in it and it goes better than ever.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

Recently ran in mine using Arias ....... ran it in very similar to Amaru .... no problems what so ever .... only thing is my car sounds liek a ute when i start it up now ..... im not sure if thats normal or not

I've heard quite a few Arias fitted RB engines and they generally sound less "rattley" than say an engine rebuilt with Wiseco slugs.

I've been told that this is because they have a lower co-efficient of thermal expansion compared to other forged pistons, and therefore the clearances can be less (ie more in line with OEM pistons).

Anyone know for sure?

GAV: i dont know were you heard that from but i had wiseco's in my engine when i rebuilt it and it never rattled, nor did it rattle with the ariais in the previous engine. how ever i did get some blow by with the arias.

In regards to running in, I used motul oil and drove it slowly for the 1st 200kms then started canning it from then on. At jamboree last yr when i raced the engine was under 500kms old on the saturday.

Come 7 months/ 10 000kms later the car is still going and going strong.

i guess it just comes down to the way the engine is built

harun

yeah the engine build is very important but the way you run the engine in will determine if you have a good engine or not, doesent matter if the engine is done perfect if you do it wrong it will burn oil.

im currently getting my engine built and getting a 550hp setup together, my biggest problem is running the engine in as i have a new computer and will not be able to run the stocker as i have a 32 and fitting a rb25engine, so i need to tune and run in together, not a good thing

i used arias pistons when i rebuild my rb 26 , 87 mm , 4 thou clearance . as with all chrome rings you need a good hone . i used run in oil for 800 k then mineral oil for 4000 k then helix ultra . when running it in put it under load from the start but only for short periods like full throtle in higher gear for like 20-30 seconds then back off then on again . i have no problems with blowby whatsoever and 175 compression .

fat 32 , did they bore it out to suit the new pistons ? the clearances maybe to big or the ring gaps to big

Thanks for all the info Guys & Girls.

Here's the low-down. ProFlow at Rossmore built the engine and they're renowned for building high quality and high power engines ( mostly big HP V8's for drags ) and I have very little doubt in the quality of their workmanship ( however, after sales service leaves a little to be desired ). The bores were machined to suit 40 thou oversized Arias slugs.

The guy that installed the engine ( not ProFlow ) put Synthetic 5w40 oil in as run in oil which I didn't know about ( and don't really think is correct ). He believes that itwill make no difference at all to the run-in.

The car: From a cold start up to operating temp, the engine is as quiet as a mouse and driving the car is reasonable until you hit the loud pedal and get up on 18-20psi boost and then the oil catch can goes from empty to full in no time flat ! I ran the engine in for about 400kms before changing oil and filter but the car just seems to be going down in power every time I drive it.

From all that I've heard now ( forums, workshops, and owners ), it would appear that Arias pistons and rings are great so long as boost is kept below 18psi ( due to ring design ) and if you want to run bigger boost than that you're best to get Tomei or Jun pistons. This is only a conclusion that I've made from talking to around 40 or so people re this subject.

Since I'm essentially broke at the moment I'm thinking of doing what Chris32 ( and others )suggested and chuck some mineral based run-in oil in, turn down the boost to about 14psi max and thrash the nuts out of it to see if the ring might bed in. If this doesn't work I'll just park the car and start stripping it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...