Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need the same thing, went and got my compressor tested and its not getting power, nor do i have any gas. Diagnostic basically says i need to see an auto electrician.

I have a R32. That's pretty ridiculous that auto sparky's would turn down business just because its an import!

Yeah it's really frustrating, my compressor doesn't receive power but I got a re-gas

Been to about 4 or 5 auto electricians and air conditioner "specialist" keep referring me back and forth. Always the same crap from the auto electricians saying they can't touch it cause it's Japanese.

I need the same thing, went and got my compressor tested and its not getting power, nor do i have any gas. Diagnostic basically says i need to see an auto electrician.

I have a R32. That's pretty ridiculous that auto sparky's would turn down business just because its an import!

if you have no gas the pressure switch will prevent the compressor operating so it doesnt sieze.

if you have no gas the pressure switch will prevent the compressor operating so it doesnt sieze.

You might need gas first.

Exactly what he said. You could bypass the pressure switch to see the compressor pulley lock in. To prove that part works. Don't try this with engine running. Take the auto electrician a wiring diagram of it next time.

I took it into a air con place and they re gassed my car to do the diagnostics test. turns out I need a new filter canister that sits by the fans as well because my one is old.

So I think the switch is not working or connected as my Apexi says A/C is operating and everything but my A/C fan and compressor never comes on. Glad I have no leaks in my system tho!

I wouldn't of thought it would be a hard fix for an auto sparky. just came to a hefty price to get it all fixed up. The air con place said they would need to take it to a auto sparky if i left it with them to fix up.

It cant be that hard to work out. The AC switch when turned on supplies 12v to the pressure switch. If there is pressure then it sends the 12v to the compressor head which will pull in.

Get a multimeter and check that the AC switch is turned on. Put ign to on but not start. Then go to the pressure switch and look for 12v. If you only have 12v on one side of pressure switch then some how touch the 2 together. This will bypass it and you might here the compressor pull in. If you find there is 12v at the compressor then it might be a bad earth. Every circuit needs an earth return to the battery to work.

Just tell them unless its a falcodore then all cars are imports.

It cant be that hard to work out. The AC switch when turned on supplies 12v to the pressure switch. If there is pressure then it sends the 12v to the compressor head which will pull in.

Get a multimeter and check that the AC switch is turned on. Put ign to on but not start. Then go to the pressure switch and look for 12v. If you only have 12v on one side of pressure switch then some how touch the 2 together. This will bypass it and you might here the compressor pull in. If you find there is 12v at the compressor then it might be a bad earth. Every circuit needs an earth return to the battery to work.

Just tell them unless its a falcodore then all cars are imports.

Do you know where the pressure switch is on the R32? In theory this should work without gas, if I test for power on the control side of the switch, i could bypass the switch like you said with or without gas to see if the compressor works. Then all i should need is a refill :) Im hoping its just the pressure switch. I dont know where it is tho :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...