Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so I'm posting this in here cause it's really all I look at on here, hoPe it's okay.?

Now it's time to take the garage ornament to the track for the first time in a long time (workshop drama's and life/ kids always slows things down) anyhow just wondering what everyones opinion is, sorta to do list prior to taking It down to Wakefield.

Status is;

Car has not been driven for about 7 months.( last time was run in on dyno and then tuned on e85).

• e85 still in tank and I know about it's water absorbtion quality so should I dump what's still in there prior to cranking her over?

• I will do compression test more to record as benchmark than anything else but would a leakdown be mOre beneficial?? Was tossing up making a leak down tester if it's worth it.

•brake lines are original ( read old) 1993 items is this foolhardy for a track only car??

• is speed of the streets the correct forum for a shakedown of a newly (relatively) screwed together car and equally rusty driver?

• btw ist a 32 with 25 track only

Any advice greatly appreciated

Also sorry bout User name, it was a looong time ago.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391110-finally-its-trackday-time/
Share on other sites

Just give her a good service. Dump the fuel and get some ULP in there to wash through all the lines. I would drop the tank and clean it out. Put 10L of ulp in there, diconnect the igniter and crank that bad boy and get some fuel flushed through the pumps and lines. You could always blow compressed air through the lines...perhaps people with experience with old E85 in the tank can tell you just how critical it is. But suspect as long as you give it all a good fluch with ULP then dump it as well.

From there, just a good service, Check gearbox fluids, PS fluid, brkae and clutch fluid. AFM is clean., new plugs etc. A wheel alignment and check the brake calipers have not seized. Nothing major, just things to check

Tanks for the reply Roy, I thought your reply would have been less dump the fuel and more dump the 25 for a 20.

Ontopic though sounds like the old e85 is an issue though, shouldn't I flush the lines with new e85 instead of ulp? Also brake fluid tranny and diff fluid was all changed at time of tune/run in . Also was going to do general service A's it still has run in mineral oil in it, roughly how long should I run it on mineral before switching to synth have heard conflicting theorise?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...