Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righto, I'd like to clear out all the shit in my current shed before I knock it down to build a new big arsed man hole....

I'll keep updating what's sold /what's left at the last page of the thread so check there if you want something rather than trying to read through all the pages.

Pick up Valley Heights Sydney or can ship most parts at your cost.

Generic stuff:

-SAAS Steering wheel (no boss kit) $80

-Quick release boss kit $40

-SAAS gear knob $40 (as new condition)

-Nismo metal gearknob $20 (couple of scratches)

-Wilwood 4 piston Superlight front brakes with Brembo 324mm drilled discs $1,100

Includes three brand new sets of spare pads, bracket adapter kit and braided lines

-Sony Xplod Stereo $40-Comes with remote control and manual

-M's turbo timer $40

-Apexi 2” Power Meter gauge $60

-Speco Meter 2.5" tacho $50

-Pivot 80 mm boost gauge $40

-Racetech oil pressure gauge $50

-Jetspeed EGT sensor/gauge brand new in box $50

-5Zigen tip $20 (pick up only, muffler is damaged but tip could be reused)

-Cat to muffler 3” exhaust pipe $40 pick up only

-Raizin Volt Stabiliser $20

-Genuine Defi Link gauge set $1000 posted with insurance:

No I won't separate and yes this is the lowest I'll go on price. These are genuine Defi items, not bok choy China shit. Oil temp and pressure come with mount so you can just bolt on (fits Gtr and Rb30). Water temp comes with a mount to plug straight into Gtr. All sensors and an extra 2m link wire included as well.

Condition is excellent, used items have only been in the vehicle for approx 400km before removal.

Set includes:

80 mm boost (brand new in box)

80 mm tacho (used)

60 mm oil pressure (used)

60 mm oil temp (used)

60 mm water temp (used)

Defi Link controller (used)

Defi warning indicator light (brand new in box)

IMG_0790.jpg

R32 Gtst (coupe and 4 door bits):

-Tomei 300km dash $300

-Greddy strut brace front $100

-Custom strut brace rear $70

-Nismo control link set $550

-5Zigen 3”stainless steel turbo back exhaust $250 (from 4 door sedan)

-Intank Gtst fuel pump $80

R32 Gtr parts (Wrecked whole car so ask away even if it's not listed here):

-Rb26dett engine with good compression $2,900 includes wiring loom, ECU, intake, exhaust, clutch, everything to bolt in and drive away

-Intake kit including copy Greddy pipe to intercooler, twin pod filters $400

-Nismo rubber front brake air guides $150

-R32 Gtr N1 turbos, good condition $1,000

-Exedy Clutch, good condition $250

-Apexi Power FC (no hand controller) $550

-R32 Gtr Garrett -5 turbos done approx 15,000km $1,500

-Greddy type R plumback setup $350

-Intercooler 600x400x100mm $150

-BOV setup including stock Rb26 BOVs (return pipe now sold) $200

-Fibreglass bonnet $500. Top condition with N1 lip and aero catches

-Gearbox in good condition $500

-Stock tail shaft $70

-Driveshafts $150 each

-Stock Rb26 front pipes $120

-Stock Rb26 exhaust manifolds and dump pipes $40 each

-Front hubs $150 for the pair

-Lower control arms $50 pair

-Attessa pump $100

-Brake booster $60

-Air con compressor $50

-Alternator $120

-Power steering rack $100

-Steering column $80

-Ignition barrel with key $50

-Indicator and wiper stalks $15 each

-Rear bar reo $170

-Pair of tail lights (gunmetal grey) $50 each or both for $80

-Pair of doors in excellent condition (gunmetal grey) $200 each or $350 pair

-Drivers door card, a couple of indentations where something has rested against it but otherwise perfect $50 (pick up only)

-Passenger front guard $100 no dents but a couple of scratches on the paint

-Side Mirrors (white) $30 pair paint is faded

-Front and rear windows $200 each (pick up only)

-Rear quarter windows $50 each

-Triple gauge cluster $60

-Climate control unit $40

-Stereo/console surround, has one crack but otherwise ok $30

-Sun visors $20 bux pair

-Kick panels $10 each

-Skyline door sill plastics $20 pair

-Fabric under bonnet trim $20

-17 x 9 +24 offset Modena rims (full set with rubber) $600

-Front lip $90, painted black has a fair few scratches, chips and a couple of broken clips (pick up only)

R33 Gtst parts:

-Hubs front only $150 or $250 front and rear

-Rear sway bar $50

-Rear cradle $100 (no brakes or diff, one bent control arm, includes hubs)

-Side skirts $80 pair

-Rear wing $80

-Passenger door $100

-Passenger side mirror $20

-Wiper stalk $15

-Passenger airbag $50 prefer pick up as I'm not sure how well it would go in post

-Ignition barrel with key $50

-Front & rear seatbelts $20 each or $50 for all four

-Climate control unit $30

-B/C pillar trims $30 each or both for $50 (awesome condition)

-ABS unit $50

-ABS bracket $20 (or free if you buy the ABS unit)

-Aftermarket castor rods $50

-Power steering rack $50

-Nissan tool kit $10 (a little rusty but ok)

-Pair of R33 Gtr rims with rubber $450

R33 Gtr (Black 95 non V spec model)

I've got a heap of parts left, pm me with what you need. I don't have front end stuff (except a drivers guard), gearbox or front seats but do have many other bits still.

S13/180sx (removed from a Sileighty) CHEAP!!!!

-5 stud hub conversion $500

-S13 body loom (from Ca18det) $50

-Speedo cable $20

-Corner indicators $30 pair

-Front bumper indicators $20 pair

-Climate control unit $30

-Rear 180sx bar (white) $50

-Rear tail light garnish (the metal bit that goes between the bumper and tail lights) $20 or free if you buy the bumper

-Rear plastic garnish (the red plastic bit that has 180sx on it) $10

-Wiper and indicator stalks (a bit grubby but work fine) $10 each

-Earthing kit $20

-Unbroken radiator overflow bottle $20

-Locked diff with ABS $200

-Rear hubs $50 pair

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391221-the-fatz-mega-shed-a-thon/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate can i get a pic of the piping kit? what pipes are they exactly? intercooler ones with afm to turbo intake? does it replace the twin turbo pipe ect? thanks

hey mate can i get a pic of the piping kit? what pipes are they exactly? intercooler ones with afm to turbo intake? does it replace the twin turbo pipe ect? thanks

see pic, doesn't include AFM but all pipes and pods shown

IMG_1024.jpg

Pic (and brand) of intercooler? Do you have the radiator fan shroud for R32 GTR? Also looking for a stock 32 GTR ecu, let me now if you'd sell separately. Ta

Edited by doo doo

Pic (and brand) of intercooler? Do you have the radiator fan shroud for R32 GTR? Also looking for a stock 32 GTR ecu, let me now if you'd sell separately. Ta

Intercooler is some bok choy brand, no shroud, stock ecu $200

IMG_1103.jpg

I'll take jetspeed egt if it comes with sensor :-). Pm sent

pm replied and yes it comes with sensor etc

pics of greddy type-r bov kit

shit pic but you get the idea:

Greddybov.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...