Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello humans, just wondering if anyone on here with a 33gtr knows where the 4wd computer is located. My 4wd warning light has been coming on as soon as the front wheels get torque and I'm pretty sure I've had water leak onto the puter (common issue) I've Googled heaps, get nothing. Hate having an unused front diff :((((((

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392008-4wd-issues/
Share on other sites

In the boot, just look up under the rear window, or where the rear wiper motor is and you will see it and it has a red L.E.D built on it that fashes slow and fast.

Count the flashes, if there are 7 slow ones and 5 fast ones then 75 is the code meaning for 75 and there is a thread with R33 GTR codes on here somewhere.

Make sure its for r33 GTR/GTS-4 as the r32 and r34 have different error codes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392008-4wd-issues/#findComment-6238391
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, checked it out, either got 64 or 65 which are both G sensor power supply and circuit problems.

However I just read that the system is supposed to be flushed after any clutch or gearbox work, which I suspect may be the origin of my troubles.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392008-4wd-issues/#findComment-6239962
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...