Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Clearing out some spare mr30 sedan parts all have come from ti model except the engine which is my original motor from mr30 sedan.

all parts located in Launceston, tas

parts are:

L24e engine complete was running well when removed it from car (3 injectors are brand less then 12 months old) motor is complete aside from waterpump removed it as was a new one.

manual gearbox

2 manual pedal boxes

very new looking power steering pump

mr30 tail lights and headlights

i have a set of jap rear lights but they are cracked at the top on the left side light and leaks water if it rains.

various ti interior pieces (electric window switches etc)

starter motor

spare grill, badges

anything else u may be looking for i might have, will strip motor if some1 wants parts. Make an offer on anything selling to fund new turbo venture on my l24e.

contact me through here or on (03) 63273056

Edited by r3volt21
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392268-r30-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Hi,

Clearing out some spare mr30 sedan parts all have come from ti model except the engine which is my original motor from mr30 sedan.

all parts located in Launceston, tas

parts are:

L24e engine complete was running well when removed it from car (3 injectors are brand less then 12 months old) motor is complete aside from waterpump removed it as was a new one.

manual gearbox

2 manual pedal boxes

very new looking power steering pump

mr30 tail lights and headlights

i have a set of jap rear lights but they are cracked at the top on the left side light and leaks water if it rains.

various ti interior pieces (electric window switches etc)

starter motor

spare grill, badges

anything else u may be looking for i might have, will strip motor if some1 wants parts. Make an offer on anything selling to fund new turbo venture on my l24e.

contact me through here or on (03) 63273056

PM Sent

Hi,

Clearing out some spare mr30 sedan parts all have come from ti model except the engine which is my original motor from mr30 sedan.

all parts located in Launceston, tas

parts are:

L24e engine complete was running well when removed it from car (3 injectors are brand less then 12 months old) motor is complete aside from waterpump removed it as was a new one.

manual gearbox

2 manual pedal boxes

very new looking power steering pump

mr30 tail lights and headlights

i have a set of jap rear lights but they are cracked at the top on the left side light and leaks water if it rains.

various ti interior pieces (electric window switches etc)

starter motor

spare grill, badges

anything else u may be looking for i might have, will strip motor if some1 wants parts. Make an offer on anything selling to fund new turbo venture on my l24e.

contact me through here or on (03) 63273056

I'm after a N47 cylinder head, complete, i don't need the manifolds

what did you want for it, I can remove it of the engine, if you don't have the tools,

Nigel

Not 100% sure which series the lights are i will take a photo of them with the damage i was talking about (i wont use them as are and cant be bothered fixing) they aren't worth much to me.

Yea i am pretty sure the mr30 motor has the n47 head its at the workshop I use atm so i can pull it off easily not asking much for it hows $100 sound not sure what things are worth I don't want stupid prices for things just trying to be fair.

Will get my mate to check the head stamp tomorrow.

lt2h9.jpg">973ix.jpg">

Thats them sorry about the size, they are in worse condition then i remember originally they were involved in a rear collision on one side still used them for a while till water got in them.

u can see a crack on the rh one aswell now i think my kids have been in the spare room getting into things. no idea if they are even worth anything in this cond.

Yea i am pretty sure the mr30 motor has the n47 head its at the workshop I use atm so i can pull it off easily not asking much for it hows $100 sound not sure what things are worth I don't want stupid prices for things just trying to be fair.

Will get my mate to check the head stamp tomorrow.

$100 sounds ok for a good complete head,

I wont be in Launcestone for another 3-4 week though.

Nigel

Edited by noddle

Hi

I am looking for body parts around the firewall, mainly where the ECU harness goes through. Could you let me know if you want to sell bits or the whole shell and what condidition it is in.

Thanks

John

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update on whats left,

mr30 gearbox

tailshaft

various interior parts (rear view mirror, center consoles etc)

electric switches ti ac, power mirrors etc (no window swtiches)

standard aus r30 tailights and headlights

brake master cyl and booster

clutch master cylinder

relay switches, boost sensor etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...