Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, am clearing out the garage of some unwanted stuff.

All items are pick-up preferred from Warrnambool Vic. Can post smaller stuff at buyers expense. Can also deliver or meet buyer half way at buyers expense.

PM, post here or text 04 3774 5147 for more information any questions etc.

I am unable to post photos at this time as the camera I have takes 4mb+ photos. I can however MMS photos.

1. Assorted EMPTY tool cases for the following Sidchrome 3/8" and 1/2" socket sets, Repco 1/4" socket set, Stanley screwdriver set, EMPTY spanner rolls for Sidchrome ring-open-end, ring, double-open-end spanner sets.

>>>>ALL CASES ARE EMPTY<<<<<

$20 the lot

2. Nakamachi? CD player, came with car, working condition.

$5

3. Exedy clutch kit, good condition, only removed/replaced due to noisy spigot bush and didn't ant to get caught out. Part number on pressure plate is NSC 534. Came out of R33 GTS.

$50

4. Stock coils. Suit diagnosing dead miss etc. Out of series 1 R33 GTS

$10

5. Stock dump/front pipe suit R33 GTST

$10

6. Stock thermofan, removed to fit FMIC, HAS BEEN MODIFIED

$10

7. Stock Jecs fuel pump from R33 GTS, unknown condition

$5

8. Stock intake/rubber pipe and crossover pipe

$10

9. Genuine Mazda RX8 rotary oil and filter suit RX8

$20

10. Speco Meter oil pressure gauge, think it's 2.5", has sender

$10

11. Stock Mazda RX8 spare wheel, unused, has leather cover

$10

12. Ryobi mitre saw, part number EMS 1221, 1200w, 210mm, braely used, still in box with accessories. Paid $130

$30

13. Stock springs and shocks from R33 GTS

$20 the lot

14. Assorted EMPTY Snap-On tool cases, part numbers CTSA561CL, CTSA561, CTA4850, CDRA6850, suits 1/2" electric rattle gun, cordless drill, cordless bit-driver, and 3/8" rattle gun CASES ARE EMPTY

$20 the lot

15. Stock swaybars from R33 GTS

$20 pair

16. 2 BCT S600 tyres, 205/55/R16, flat spotted, camber wear, suit skids

$20 pair

Will post photos if I can find a camera that takes a smaller file size. Will also add itmes as I find them.

  • 4 weeks later...

Also for sale:

2 Pioneer GMD7400M monoblock amplifiers

2 Eclipse SW6010 10" subwoofers

Currently in car and can be heard running, one sub has had the surround re-glued to the basket over a year ago, good working order had no issues since.

Selling as a package for $400, pick-up or arrange a meeting place etc only.

2 subs and 2 amps as pictured:

(sorry for the poor picture)

post-74990-0-90776000-1332545874_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...