Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and gals just got a nice R33 GTS-T in today with some nice mods.. Picked it up from the import yard, got 100 metres down the road, stalled it pulling out onto a main road - damm that twin plate clutch, and couldn't get it to start again. It woudl crank over slowly trying to catch felt like it was flooded... Then then battery died, so we tried jump starting it but still no go... Now it seem to crank over reallly fast with no sign of firing. Even put more fuel in... Also still a slight smell of fuel... Can hear fuel pump come on as well so its not that. It also has a remote start and factory remote immobiliser. Other weird thing is that the ignition stays on for about 20 sec with all the warning lights on the dash for about 20 sec after you take the key out... Can't find a turbo timer anywhere....

I am thinking it could be the immobiliser but not sure... Will try today to take the cover off pull a spark plug out and see if any spark.. Will also maybe take the cam cover off to check the timing belt and then check all fuses as well. Any other hints?? Sorry its an RB25DET engine.. Someone also said take the oil cap off and see if you can see the camshaft turning?

I had this problem in a Soarer once turns out it was the igniter module and two fuses.... but the Nissan has the amplifier on the back of the engine....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3923-rb25det-cranks-but-wont-fire/
Share on other sites

Yea only thing I can think of is fuses or sensors..

similar thing happened on my VL (RB30det) and it was either the Fuel Pump fuse, or the CAS ( I dont think the rb25s have a CAS though)

But it does sound like some weird ignition thing.. has it got an ITC or anything? Did it start ok when you first started it?

Originally posted by ice180

Other weird thing is that the ignition stays on for about 20 sec with all the warning lights on the dash for about 20 sec after you take the key out...  Can't find a turbo timer anywhere....  

the turbo timer might be the one like i had which was built in with the alarm system...

where do I start>???

hks 2530 turbo

apexi fuel reg

Nismo 550cc injectors

HKS front mount cooler

greddy profec b boost controller

front and rear strut braces

trac control and active LSD

four greddy electronic gauges

Nismo 300kmh dash

Tein suspension

Chipped ECU

300zx AFM

remote start and timer

Nismo twin plate clutch..

some poofy cushions as well as 3 layers of mats in the passenger side.

I had mine do that as well, when I started it, I stalled it almost immediately and then it started cranking but not a single sign of life - it was cranking very fast, not like when its starting up, it was cranking as if all spark plugs were removed and there was no compression.

I ended up tearing my hair out until I unplugged the variable cam timing solenoid then it started cranking normally and fired after a few coughs and splutters, then I plugged the solenoid back in and all was well.

  • 2 months later...

I've been cranking my rb20 over the past few days trying to work out why it isn't receiving spark. This means that there would be fuel entering the cylinder's but not getting fired. Over repeated attempts to start it, could this non-burnt fuel build up in the spark plug gap so that by the time I find the problem, it wouldn't fire anyway coz of the build up of fuel? Or would the build up in the gap be minimal if at all?

Originally posted by ice180

  It woudl crank over slowly trying to catch felt like it was flooded...  

I had this exact problem. Really pissed me off! had a petrol smell and it seemed the engine was pumping fuel thru even though it wouldnt start. What it turned out to be was a vacuum hose came off this thing here (in the picture attached) dunno what it is, but plugged it on and it went perfect straight away.

Originally posted by Bozz

Sly33 what that yellow arrow points to is the air bleed tap for your cooling system, its not an air hose but a water hose.

Oops, thanks for pointing that out! Im in sydney and my car is in adelaide- i guess i cant remember the hose! when i get back ill check which one it really was :D:):D :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...