Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

It's been a while since I posted up any updates on the progress of my 4 door project so thought I'd bring you all up to speed. I have been working on it slowly as time has permitted, the interior is stripped out with the exception of the dash (next weekends job) and with the help of a mate the engine and gearbox our now out and the engine bay ¾ stripped.

The rust is worse than I first thought so it looks like I will be stripping it to a bare shell for repairs and it is going to take longer than I first planned but that's all part of the fun isn't it :) 3 months in and I've blown the budget and the timeline. lol

I am now looking for some bits, it would be great if anyone can assist with these things:

Surrounds for interior door handles x 2

Trim for the centre pillar for both sides

Chrome trim from the front of the guards for both sides

The little glowing things on top of the guards that tell you if your lights are on for both sides (also if anyone could tell me what they are called it would be greatly appreciated :))

P.s Thanks to Mario I now have a gear knob! Cheers mate :)

Now for some current pictures.

Trial fitting repaired guard (with a bent bumper :()

IMG_0573.jpg

Repaired guard and valance

IMG_0611.jpg

About to lift engine and box out

IMG_0612.jpg

IMG_0616.jpg

Found under the seats and carpet - starting to pay for itself!!

IMG_0671.jpg

Parts needed:

IMG_0670.jpg

IMG_0665.jpg

Hey Rick, the headlight monitors, there are a set on import monster, under gc211, but are for the c211 model with optic fibre connectors

Thanks Mario but I couldn't find them, must have been to late :(

Mate has a set of door handles spare I think.

It would be great if you could ask him if he would sell them to me. I just need the black plastic trim behind the handle, I think someone has done them up to tight at some stage and the centres have broken around the screw. Cheers.

It would be great if you could ask him if he would sell them to me. I just need the black plastic trim behind the handle, I think someone has done them up to tight at some stage and the centres have broken around the screw. Cheers.

I had a pair repaired by a plastic welder, came up as good as new, cost me about $25 that might be a option for you?

Thanks Mario but I couldn't find them, must have been to late :(

It would be great if you could ask him if he would sell them to me. I just need the black plastic trim behind the handle, I think someone has done them up to tight at some stage and the centres have broken around the screw. Cheers.

Will ask him today and get back to you. They were for sale but the original buyer backed out I think.

thats is going to be one wicked classic when your done man, good job on finding that one, i thik i might hit the car yards myself today an look for some parts for my r31 lol. good luck on the rebuild mate keep us all tuned

thats is going to be one wicked classic when your done man, good job on finding that one, i thik i might hit the car yards myself today an look for some parts for my r31 lol. good luck on the rebuild mate keep us all tuned

Thanks mate, i'll try and keep this as up to date as I can. Good luck with the R31!

Whats the rear bumper like on the coupe? If its alright do you want to sell it?

Yes I would be happy to sell it. PM sent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...