Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I used my high boost today for the first time in a while, Usually I run 15 psi as my high setting but I felt like opening her up a little so I ran 23 psi. I came into 3rd then boosted all the way through the gear, nothing out of the ordinary.

Heres the problem, Car got up to 1.5 bar, then once hit it, it dropped down to 1 bar or so then back up to 1.5 and so on repetitively. So its not very stable to say the least. But when I run 1 bar as max boost like usual its always 100% stable.

I am using the Blitz SBC ID controller and im pretty confident its hooked up right. (Solenoid tapped into the hose that goes to the black cannister by headlight)

The controller is reading directly from the plenum.

Could it be possible the standard R32 GTST bov cant hold that sort of pressure and is leaking? Or should the solenoid have its own direct connection? I can understand it being unstable with a couple psi but a whole 7 psi fluxuating is pretty crazy

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392455-not-holding-high-boost-any-ideas/
Share on other sites

What turbo? What ecu? i'm going to say either the bov is not holding (blank it off and see), you have a boost leak, your ebc is hitting the limiter and cutting off boost. Does it flop the moment you hit more boost? Why the hell are you using a line from the carbon canister?

Tee into your hot pipe.

I had a similar problem.

I boosted from 10psi to 15psi and it would reach 15 then as i progressed thru revs is dropped down to 10 again.

It was my wastegate lol

Garrett turbo, apexi fc ecu, has been tuned on the boost by previous owner. I don't remember it doing this in the past tho I don't usually hold boost through out gears as long.

It's hooked up that way because that's how the mechanic did it and how it was when I brought the car.

Shouldn't be any back pressure, it was tuned on setup and it iis a Garrett gt2871

Yea pretty much just flopped once it got to the boost setting.

Where's this hot pipe? Everything's running from the plenum :/

Edited by HYBR3D

Well played around with the controller this morning and it's now sitting at 1.45 bar stable as. Think the warning needed changing. You guys are right tho it is a little high for the small thing but nuthing it can't handle :)

You guys are right tho it is a little high for the small thing but nuthing it can't handle :)

You'll be eating those words when the super heated air caused by running the turbo beyond its efficiency range causes the engine to detonate and blows the ring lands off most of your pistons.

Should be fine it has a massive blitz intercooler, and the engine is all forged with all supporting mods.

See what happens I think it will be fine. Either way it's going for another tune shortley. Thanks for the help everyone.

Edited by HYBR3D

Should be fine it has a massive blitz intercooler, and the engine is all forged with all supporting mods.

See what happens I think it will be fine. Either way it's going for another tune shortley. Thanks for the help everyone.

That's not how it works hey.

You'll find if you bring the turbo back to an amount of boost where it is at its best efficiency, it will lose very little horsepower, and might even gain some.

Also, a "big" inter-cooler certainly does not counteract the effects of the turbo super heating the air due to inefficiency.

You really need to read up on how they actually work.

There are a lot of people out there that think boost is actually good.... Boost is bad.. Flow is good..

That's not how it works hey.

You'll find if you bring the turbo back to an amount of boost where it is at its best efficiency, it will lose very little horsepower, and might even gain some.

Also, a "big" inter-cooler certainly does not counteract the effects of the turbo super heating the air due to inefficiency.

You really need to read up on how they actually work.

There are a lot of people out there that think boost is actually good.... Boost is bad.. Flow is good..

Yea your completley right I won't argue with that. The thing is I don't want to upgrade anything in this setup and I want to achieve the most out I what I have.

The only reason I'm using 1.5 bar is because that's what it's been dynod to already so I'm assuming it's as efficient as it can be there. I'm only re tuning because I have upgrade fuel pump as it was the only thng letting it down last time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...