Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car, engine, current modification level? What about getting your handling/braking sorted first? More important to be able to stop your car than go fast.

Otherwise, search in the dyno thread results for a power level you might want to achieve, then have a read of the mods required to do it. Then base your purchase by priority if you have to do it part by part.

ie; before getting a gt3076r, think about getting a ecu (afm or maf?), then exhaust, fmic if you feel the need, injectors, pump, etc.

^ thats hardly accurate anyway.

It was just ripped from the pages of this forum by someone who had no idea what he was ripping.

As if upping the boost to 10psi only gives 10rwkw - thats where MOST of the gains come from.

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game.

OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows:

JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger)

JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item)

Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC)

Walbro or Bosch fuel pump

Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi.

Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison)

Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change

The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again.

Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading.

Goodluck,

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game.

OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows:

JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger)

JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item)

Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC)

Walbro or Bosch fuel pump

Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi.

Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison)

Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change

The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again.

Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading.

Goodluck,

+1 to this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...