Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ if you zoom in on the label it says:

WARNING: may cause overly dramatic, suspiciously long drag races which cause danger to your manifold, causing you to end up owing some 'roided up baldy a 10 sec car with overnight parts from japan... but you do get to bang his ridiculously hot sister

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392774-wondering/#findComment-6248804
Share on other sites

^ Also will make you bolt in floor pan fall out :P.

In all seriousness but, its not worth the money. I've been through all this at the end of the day it better to to just wait it out. (buy a turbo engine and modify it while ur waiting)

also don't just think "performance" means powahh, look into coil overs (i have tein HAs in my 33 and it handels like its on rails), big sway bars, strut braces, sticky tires, or think about the other components that are going to.let you down later on with more power, think gearbox clutch diff etc.

Goodluck

Edited by Nikk_666
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392774-wondering/#findComment-6248849
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I agree with nikk, wait out the p-plater stage before putting all the 'go fast parts' on. make it handle better, make it stop better, make your car more rigid, more reliable. coz there really is no point and no need to make more powerfull if its going to cost you a new gearbox the first time you take it to the track or a new diff because you wanted to race that wanker in the Commodore who thinks he can beat you cause he put CHEVROLET badges (which somehow adds 50rwkw) on his HOLDEN which is a v6 and has nothing what so ever to do with CHEVROLET..

I too am on my p-plates and just bought a stock standard N/A R34 and the only thing I have done to it so far is put an Australian head unit in because I do not know how to read or speak Japanese, replace front and rear speakers because they had more rattles than a paper bag in the wind and put in an amp for my sub and an amp for the speakers for a nice crisp sound..

Next on the list is coilovers and maybe some adjustable arms to get my car to sit and handle better than the stock setup so when I try and drift my skyline, it wont body roll like a 4x4 with a 12inch lift kit, after that maybe some nice rims, but not ones that say 'hey look at me, I have 20" rims skyline, but I have no tread on my tyres becuase they rub on everything known to underneath a wheel arch(except the road because my car obviously does not have the power to do so)' I could go on, but I think my point has been made..

To be completely honest, it would be wiser to purchase interchangable gear such as coilovers, arms, strut braces etc. Also whats the point on spending all your money on your N/A engine and only gain 50-75kw, when you could spend a tiny bit more and make 100kw+.. And if you think I'm heading down the wrong path, you may aswell buy an N/A VL Commodore for $500, bolt a spare turbo that you have lying around your house on the side of your engine and race your friends down a HWY that cops regularly patrol... just for fun...

And if you choose to go down the spend big money on an N/A for little gain just cause you can, give me the money instead... JUST KIDDING!!

There is a nice thread that has been pinned:

http://www.skylinesa...ated-na-engine/

have a read, if it doesnt help you, google is your friend.. search for products, brand names etc..

my 2c.. :) and i hope that helps..

MOPSKI

Edited by M O P S K I
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392774-wondering/#findComment-6293778
Share on other sites

also by law your car is deemed unroadworthy to have any non OEM spec parts, eg increasing the manufactured power of the engine using cams, upgrading turbos, bigger intercooler and pod filter (both together, not one or the other). etc. vicroads are very unclear on their laws, they don't use scenarios, eg. 'If you have better brakes, you are allowed to increase the power of the engine.' vicroads don't mention a scenario like that at all, they also said you are allowed to change any part of your exhaust aslong as it doesn't inscrease power and doesn't make your engine emissions worse. If you are stuck on what is legal or illegal, give them a ring, speak to the person highest in the chain, take a note of who they are and what their answers are and is possible get them to write a letter saying what you can and can't do, so then you have physical evidence so if you are ever pulled over with modifications you have evidence but ofcorse make copies of the laws and dates of the laws..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392774-wondering/#findComment-6295002
Share on other sites

Enjoy the Skyline with minimal / cheap mods for now. Wait out the P Plate stage and then just buy a GTT. The money you will invest in getting the car to go faster will not be worth it in the end when it comes time to sell.

By succumbing to the "mod bug" you will also run the risk of getting consistently hassled by the blue and red for modifying as well which can also increase costs by copping fines left right and centre. I've been through this, not worth it for now. Wait it out.

Vik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392774-wondering/#findComment-6296180
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...