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i havent done one on an rb motor but generally a little judicious use of a chisel, a stanley knife blade and a little tickle with some emery does the trick.

Edited by Springsteen

Forgot to mention the blue coating causes the cam gears to glaze over hence the belt slipping.

As Dale has already correctly stated, synchronous/timing belts don't slip, they are a positive drive system. You may be thinking of 'slip' when it is actually ratcheting teeth which means it is no longer synchronised (extremely bad for interference engines). A lack of tension is the only real way it can do this. The correct tension keeps the belt teeth in mesh with the sprocket grooves. Timing belts just don't stretch, they are manufactured not to.

  • 3 months later...

well i got around to changing my timing belt today, bout 6 hours down so far, and still have to put 2/3 of it back together. this is tough for a first timer, but i'll be glad and better for the experience when it's done. big thanks to the guide that was posted previous, has been a big help, some bits had me confused where pieces of info weren't in their but i managed to figure it out, fingers crossed it runs good when i finish it tomorrow :unsure:

  • 4 weeks later...

well i got around to changing my timing belt today, bout 6 hours down so far, and still have to put 2/3 of it back together. this is tough for a first timer, but i'll be glad and better for the experience when it's done. big thanks to the guide that was posted previous, has been a big help, some bits had me confused where pieces of info weren't in their but i managed to figure it out, fingers crossed it runs good when i finish it tomorrow :unsure:

Let us all know how it went jeremy??? :)

your right Dale ,horsepower doesn`t mean diderly shit, all comes down to the tension on the belt, pulley condition , tentioner alignment and age of the belt. I bought a couple of Japanese belts of Ebay,good quality and reasonably priced, cant see any reason to change the water pump because it was perfect. Guess it depends if you do your own work or pay someone to rip you off. did the whole job in under 2 hours, amazing how quiet it is now though. one thing to remember , not all belts have the same profile,hence the whyne? which means incorect fit and probable failure.

AHA! Hit the nail on the head for another reason of slippage or jumping teeth. I spent just over ten years in the automotive industry/engineering, & there are 3 "general" designs of tooth profile that manufacturers use. Miss match teeth & sprockets & whammo! Stick with OEM & a good parts interpreter (unlike a saturday nissan guy who ordered the wrong consol part & tried to sell me diesel oil for a Stagea & Cube!!!!), check your profiles before installation & you cant go wrong!

oh forgot to update, :unsure: all is well, timing is back where it was set, car runs perfect had a slip of aircon belt on initial start up to get rid of some excess water (splashed on belts when i forgot to put bottom radiator hose back on before filling, silly me in a hurry to get it finished) but yeah car is good as new and next time i need to do it should be alot quicker as i now have ALL tools required and know what needs to be removed and what doesn't. as i mentioned above kudos to having SK's tutorial to follow.

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