Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure this has been covered, though I'm on my phone and I'm restricted searching.

anyway.....

changed my plugs yesterday to the NGK iridium bkr7ex and it's missing under WOT 6000rpm +

Any advise as to what i should gap the plugs to??

currently doing around 320awkw at 16psi with 1000cc injectors

thanks

Edited by binga85
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393489-spark-plug-gapping/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Your air-fuel ratio's will play a big part in your success or failure here. If your fuel ratio's are dipping deep into and past the 11's, then 0.8 won't be enough. Aim for 12:1. Transitions can be tricky with big injectors too. Really for that power you only need 550cc's.

Plug gapping to fix this is really just a bandaid to cover up the fact the tune is too rich. 6 heat range is fine for 320kw too, there is no benefit in going to 7's or super cold race plugs. In fact a hotter plug will foul less.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...