Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid:  See above.  I think you're getting confused with nitrous oxide's tendency to reduce inlet temps.  It does quite the opposite to the exhaust gases, increasing them dramatically.

I'm wondering how the exhaust wheel is holding up too but now it doesn't really concern me as I have achieved what I set out to with it :rant:

thanks :rant:

I wasnt confused, just didnt know what it was like on the 'out' as opposed to the 'in' (which i know) :cheers:

You must have one freak of a turbo! :rant:

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You must have one freak of a turbo!

I can't see why?!?! It gets operated at 1.0 bar for 11 seconds (if that) at hotter than normal temps and then has plenty of time to cool down. It makes no more power without gas than any other std turbo running at this boost level (195kw) so I guess I'm just lucky.

LOL brett hasnt hired you for launchin classes yet ? : Þ

No cos he knows i'm an arsey prick! lol .... I might never be able to manage a 1.6 again. More gas and 1.7's though.....there's a thing :rant:

Adrian

Thanks for the reply!

Certainly am... I didn't think it was possible for the GTST's to get under a 1.8 60ft time without slicks! :D

As said before - well done and a great time!

So is there anything else coming on the car (more NOS perhaps)? :D

Cheers,

matt

There. Happy now? :D

Adrian

I can't see why?!?!  It gets operated at 1.0 bar for 11 seconds (if that) at hotter than normal temps and then has plenty of time to cool down.  It makes no more power without gas than any other std turbo running at this boost level (195kw) so I guess I'm just lucky.

Yeah, true point.

I guess as long as you give it ample time to cool and dont go back out for another quick successive run it probably would last a while!

Congrats on the times adrian :)

it's good to see someone's taking a different approach than most! and big congrats on the 60 footer, 1.6's on a street car is awesome :)

it'll be interesting to see how the bottom end holds out with some increasingly bigger shots :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...