Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys wanting to sell my 1996 gtst manual. need it goone so for a quick sale the price will be $13800 ono. I have owned the car now for nearly 2 years, brought it from a guy in Sydney. who had done all the work to the car. The car made 450 rwhp on 20 psi mods include .

Full exhaust from turbo back with high flow cat

Gt 35 40 turbo externally gated with screamer pipe larger rear housing aswell unsure of size

Stainless steel high mount manifold wrapped in heat wrap

Front mount intercooler

Spitfire coils

Top of engine painted blue

Platinum sparkplugs

Aftermarket plenium

Larger throttle body

Polished Aluminium radiator

Strut brace

Custom fuel rail

700 cc injectors

Apexi power fc with hand controller

Lowered on 19 inch hp rims

Exceedy heavy duty clutch

Tint

In tank fuel pump

Boost gauge

Cd player

I'm sure there is stuff that I've forgot if you guys are interested sms mick on 0413730792 car is also located in Newcastle nsw as I'm using my phone it won't let me upload pics ill send them to you via text until I get some pics up reason for sale is to buy a gtr cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394014-450-rwhp-r33-series-2-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Quick update for some things I forgot to put in the mod list

Dual stage boost controller set at 12 and 20 psi

Drift oil catch can

Fuel pressure regulator

Blow off valve ( hidden In front bar)

Pics to come soon guys

  • 2 weeks later...

thats the engine bay withoput the polished aluminium radiator forgot to metion also heavy duty exceedy cushion button clutchyellow jacket coils not spitfire lol

Edited by SYC-033
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...