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Everything posted by jukic.j

  1. I can also extend the rego out for cheap if the buyer wants because i'm a concession holder.
  2. Oh wow really you cant edit your original post, what kind of 18th century forum is this. well I also have a return flow FMIC and pipes if anyone is inclined to change it. I was going to change it at one point but then decided I liked the look too much and determined now that I have the kit I can do it whenever and if ever it is necessitated. I also have a stock exhaust system for that circumstance as well.
  3. Bah still waiting with the dash out for a heater core... did manage to clean a lot of behind dash grime especially in the air vents learnt a lot about the fuses and fixed up a couple of those that I didn't even know weren't working.
  4. For sale is my 1996 R33 GTST S2 (Upgrading and yes will add cash to swap for R34 GTT) 232KW at 15PSI (No lag to speak of) Price: Not really sure what it's worth in today's market but I was offered 10k/11k last time I considered selling it. It also obviously depends on certain things as you will read in the ad; Gear knob Sub-woofer Head-unit / computer Fire extinguisher + custom bracket RWC but let's for the sake of the forum rules put a placeholder price of 10k post or PM offers 2 door Turbo (GCG Highflow, no shaft play) Manual transmission (Exedy heavy duty) Silver FMIC 3.5 inch HKS turbo back exhaust Modified stock air box Upgraded slotted brake rotors all around Bosch 040 equivalent fuel pump Engine bay strut brace 18" DTM Rush rims Apexi pencil turbo timer HICAS lockout bar 4 x speaker 2 x tweeter 1 x AMP Awesome Mongoose M80 alarm saved the car from being stolen once already! Tinted windows 160k km *New* battery *New* PowerFC (with hand controller) *New* 2 x front tyres (can do more tyres as part of purchase at discount cost, have friend who owns tyre shop) The car has an under front seat bracket for fire extinguisher and the fire extinguisher itself. I would plan to take this with me unless the buyer particularly wants it. Run on 98 Smurfs blood gearbox oil Castrol GTX engine oil Car was broken into and has just come back from repairs. Good alarm proved it's worth it's salt First i'll describe damage then resulting repairs: Door and ignition barrels re-done Alarm siren replaced (original ripped out) New battery (died when they f**ked the electrics and ripped out the fuse box/wiring) Dash replaced with series 3 Sub-woofer stolen (more on that later) Head unit screen smashed (more on that later) Gear knob stolen (more on that later) Front bar paint damaged (Going to be fully resprayed by insurance) Right hand side paint damaged from someone side swiped me (Right hand side full re-spray covered by insurance) Power FC stolen and brand new power FC replaced brand new Power FC manufactured straight from the factory in Japan (3 week wait). Brand new tune from Racepace. Car was doing 240KW on the last tune but not even getting 300KM to a tank. New tune is 232KW (unnoticeable power difference) but gets like 60-70KM more per tank. Haven't got an exact figure because i've only used one tank since I got it back from tuning and didn't get to run it to empty. This was a vid I made before the car got broken into. So now i'll address some of the things I said I would. Sub-woofer stolen means a few good things for the buyer: You can provide your own sub which I can install (cheaper for you) You can buy it off me with no sub (cheaper, lighter, more boot space or whatever your reason) You can pick a sub as part of the purchase of the vehicle and I will install and sell as part of car Gear knob stolen: I am borrowing one from a friend and the same BYO, buy without or pick and buy as part of car applies as above. Head-unit: Still in working order. Only the touchscreen is broken, everything else is in working order. It also has a remote control so it could be completely usable like that. I imagine most people will get it replaced but this allows someone to have a fully functional audio system and they can then take their time to do research, find the right head uni, save for the right head unit or do something different altogether. So the same BYO, buy without or pick a head-unit / computer and I will install applies. Personally I was going to replace the head unit with a touch-screen interfaced computer so that I can run windows or linux or whatever I want on it. This would allow me to do things like: RFID door locks which lock and unlock based on your proximity to the vehicle Give the car WIFI so when I park in the driveway it can connect to the home WIFI and sync all my new music to it Remote car start Display speed, revs, and other diagnostic information on the screen Add NAV, GPS, accelerometer into it for normal driving and for cool stuff like lap-timing or speed runs Add an in-car camera which can record traffic incidents etc to the computer and then when I get home it will connect to WIFI and automagically transfer it all to my home computer Add a SIM card and give the computer 1GB data for $9.90 per month for google maps or pandora radio or whatever you may need to look up on the run, especially if your phone has died The only thing wrong with the car at the moment that the insurance isn't going to cover is my heater core began leaking while being repaired. Racepace bypassed it and I am in the process of acquiring a new heater core for it and the dash is already mostly out. This also gives me a good selling point opportunity to tell you than I am meticulously cleaning everything behind there. Man those air vents were dusty. 20 years worth of dust I guess. Also because of the coolant leak I will be shampooing the carpets in the car.
  5. I'm trying to do this without having to re-gas because I have to take apart the dash to do head unit work but I can't seem to find any guides which explain how to get all the way to the heater core. I have the centre of the dash out (head unit, climate control, cluster, glove box but not sure where to go from there.
  6. Posting here because of Google... R34 GT4 coupe to turbo and keeping AWD. How much does something like that cost? parts and labour I love the r34 GTT but I hunger for AWD grip
  7. This could work very nicely. I have almost the same mods in my R33 S2 and have been looking to jump to R34 without power loss. What kind of RWKW you got there?
  8. Ah good call. Something to mention next time I see a tuner.
  9. It's not the wrong thread because the topic was OIL in the role of hard starting. It cranks over many times before starting. Starts easy after it's been driven/warmed so I took a guess at oil. Cheers for the info
  10. What could hard starting be? Should have mentioned it only hard starts when cold so I thought maybe the thick unwarmed oil?
  11. RB25DET 1995 165K 240kw Going to track her She is a bit hard starting. recommend oil? And yes i've red the thread front to back before, it just doesn't really give you a conclusion.
  12. If the insurance is good theft might be a good thing. I hope my car gets stolen XD. I'm up 5 grand if mine gets stolen. But my car is garaged overnight in a locked garage at the end of a long house lined driveway and I sleep above the garage so the chances are comparatively much less.
  13. That article was completely misleading and incorrect and street commodores officially revoked the article and apologised on their website: http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php
  14. Fuuuuuck. I live in Balwyn but I didn't see it. Too close to home.
  15. Don't really know what you want to know about it. you haven't made that clear. It's illegal if you have airbags I believe because it's a monocoque chassis and it changes the crumple zone and how that affects the airbag deployment. If you are thinking about cutting a hole, don't. If you have the hole already, get a return flow inter-cooler setup and weld that hole shut. If you get caught it needs engineering among other expensive things.
  16. Good to know. Another piece of important information I've not come across anywhere else yet. Cheers
  17. So does that hold for all pumps or is this pump just not designed to withstand E85?
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