Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help me please. I have a R33 and for a while i was having trouble with it spluttering and idleing bad mainly after putting it under load. So i changed the coil packs that made no difference so i decided to change the fuel filter. When i took the filter off i tipped the fuel out and it was filthy and brown. So i put a bottle on the line and turned the reds on to see what it was like coming from the tank and it was clean. After changing the fuel filter and cleaning the AFM the car ran fine untill today. I boosted it up it made a pop when i backed off it started to splutter and idle bad when trying to drive it it just wanted to come on to boost and kept fluttering ( i have a bov atmosphere/plumbback) i pulled over to check it then everything went back to normal its now driving fine again and boosting smoothly.

The car is pretty much stock apart from exhaust, FMIC and BOV

Any ideas???

Hmmm... When you said pop that definately sounded like a intercooler hose coming off. Maybe you popped another vacuum hose somewhere. Do you hear a whistling or sucking?

Black smoke when it happened?

Car is perfectly fine now?

i checked all the vacume lines and intercooler pipes and double checked they were tight everything was fine.

There was no sucking or whistling noises or anything and it did blow a heap of black smoke once before when i was trying to keep the revs up and i could smell petrol. This was before i did the coil packs and fuel filter.

Its not fine i thought it was untill yesterday. it sometimes hunts for idle and ive noticed the thing that brings it on is when its been bought under light boost after the turbo flutters the car wants to stall then hunts a bit it dosnt do it all the time. Could it be the BOV?

Cheers

if the bov is venting to atmosphere thats more than likely your problem, the way they work means that the car is getting unmetered air (air not measured by the afm) and therefore idles and runs poorly, needs a retune to fix it. if it plumbs back then you have a vacuum leak somewhere

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Edited by SargeRX8

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Vacuum in the manifold. the pipes have a small amount of pressure in them

Lastnight I took the BOV of and replaced it with the gfb stealth as i noticed the one that was on it was open 100% on both sides. I have the gfb one running 100% plumback.

Anyways took the car for a drive gave it heaps and it drove fine held boost and did everything it should.

Coming home from work this arvo about half hour into the drive just cruising didnt boost it up it started to splutter.

it also feels like the car sometimes cuts out completly then comes back to life splutering and carrying on.

the car stalled i fired it up it then drove normal for the last 5min of the trip home

What was the filter on the pump like ?

Have u drained fuel to check quality of it ?

Also check all fuel lines make sure there all good not split or leaking or sucking water

What is the timing set at ?

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The only reason I say check timing is that if ur cad I faulty ur timing may possibly be off if u get the chance hook up to a consult

Hey mate,

I remember reading somewhere recently that BOVs venting to atmosphere might cause stalling issues for skylines. I can't find the exact site where I read it, but here are some links for extra info on how others have solved it. Hope it helps!

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/9424-bov-causing-stalling.html

http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/bovfaq.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101975

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/FG-ADM-R33.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...