Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, this is my first time posting, long time lurker.

I've been set on purchasing a V35 25GT Series 2 for a while now as my first car. I've been endlessly inspecting cars for a long time, and my choices are very limited. I saw a few threads with mixed reviews about Nagoya Motors, but nonetheless had a look, and I found this:

http://www.nagoyamotors.com.au/zoom.php?id=1700

I'm mainly interested in a black or white series two, neither of which have been available for sale in Victoria.

Now, I know nothing about importing cars, I'd like to know as much as I can: ie costs associated with importing (do they differ through a specialist importer?), what is and how much is compliance? Problems with dealing with interstate purchases? The upfront risk seems quite minimal, with the promotion of the deposit being "FULLY REFUNDABLE AT ANY TIME IF NOT HAPPY WITH THE VEHICLE CONDITION OR ANY OTHER REASON."

I'd like to be as informed as possible, and your help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, I know that you'll all be of much help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394273-nagoya-motors-first-time-import/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The prices on their website are landed in Aus, complied and ready to rego. That price seems pretty high, but then down the bottom they talk about discount if you pay a deposit prior to landing here etc .... so at $2k off the price is getting more reasonable.

Any particaulr reason you want a 250GT (I can only assume you are a P Plater), as the resale on 250GTs is truly awful.

The prices on their website are landed in Aus, complied and ready to rego. That price seems pretty high, but then down the bottom they talk about discount if you pay a deposit prior to landing here etc .... so at $2k off the price is getting more reasonable.

Any particaulr reason you want a 250GT (I can only assume you are a P Plater), as the resale on 250GTs is truly awful.

It's only a matter of personal preference. Yea, I am on my P-Plates. Thank you for that, clearly inexperienced enough to completely disregard the resale of a car. Would you advise against its purchase then?

Well i have a series 1 300GT and I think as a P Plate car it is a awesome machine, all the luxuries of a BMW or Merc at an affordable price in better condition than any BMW or Merc at that price and kilometers. Paid 14k drive away with 42000 on the clock. (note im also a P-Plater and my 300GT is full leather and all options except a sunroof)

An easy trick i've learnt with these cars, acquire the Vin number from the dealer, put it into google and have a look.

Myself and another Stagea owner did this from a range of different dealers and found some interesting results.

It generally brought up the auction/for sale ad from Japan, with the original mileage.whistling.gif

An easy trick i've learnt with these cars, acquire the Vin number from the dealer, put it into google and have a look.

Myself and another Stagea owner did this from a range of different dealers and found some interesting results.

It generally brought up the auction/for sale ad from Japan, with the original mileage.whistling.gif

brb doing this^

In his defence, I think he was refering to himself when stating 'inexperienced', and was thankful for the advise against a 250GT?

To the OP, I would certainly go with the 300GT over the 250GT, or if you are close to getting off your Ps, I would wait and get a 350GT...

He was talking about himself lol, and yea go the 300GT I personally cannot fault it as a p-plate car. And i dont think he is close to coming off his P's as he said it will be his first car??

He will clear it up when he comes back on I'm pretty sure he meant himself bro not to mention sarcasm threw written word is, well, quite difficult to detect and can be misread for better and worse.

Sounded to me like sarcasm guys ....

Sincere apologies, I meant what I said about being inexperienced enough to disregard many aspects of owning the 250GT, including the resale aspect of owning the car; hence the reason for my post on this forum. I don't know much about owning imports, and I wanted to get as much input as I could into its pros and cons before deciding with a purchase.

To be honest yes, when you can find a 300GT at the same price .... and the 300GT has more power, more torque, yet the same fuel economy.

But you are clearly a smart arse who isn't going to listen to me anyway (despite you being brand new to the forums, yet have the gall to be cheeky to an admin). So I will wait until you buy it and a month down the track you will be unhappy with the power. Then you will come on here asking how to get more power out of it .... and I will be waiting. :thumbsup:

Thanks, I'll keep looking around in that case. I'm in no rush, and want to be completely happy with my first purchase.

Yeah sorry mate sounded to me like you were being a sarcastic twat. My mistake, and I am sorry :thumbsup::ninja: :ninja: :D

Cleaned up the thread a bit ... gl with your hunt for a new car - there are plenty of good ones at great prices at the moment.

When you are ready, Cody from nagoya will look after you.

I brought a car from them when another employee used to work there and was dodgy and didnt give me everything promised.

Cody called and made it all right again and even over delivered and is still helping me when ever i need assistance.

Fantastic company, they will do everything right by you even AFTER the car purchase, 6mth, 1 year later etc!

Oh and ask for the Auction sheet if you want to know more about the car, they shouldnt have a problem with that!

Just beware...make sure YOU go see the car. I have had a bad and costly experience...its all fixed now..at my cost, and the car drives great (Caldina) but dont be lured by the 1 yr warranty, road side assist, free shipping to any state bla bla bla. I would like to think that my experience was a one off and they are a trusted business. Good Luck

make sure you get your auction papers before you lay down the cash too. I'm still waiting on mine, and the set of coilpacks that failed the day i got it off the truck.

And I purchased my stagea nearly 2 years ago.

i had a couple of dents that happened after the vehicle inspection, and a destroyed DAYZ(ie hard to find original option) leather gearknob had a split, so instead of fixing it like i was told would happen, they just tore the leather off, leaving me with a plastic gear knob.

On the positive side, the 3 yr warranty that i got with the car through the national warranty company was actually quite good, made a couple of claims and as long as your service history is up to date, all was well.

Just beware...make sure YOU go see the car. I have had a bad and costly experience...its all fixed now..at my cost, and the car drives great (Caldina) but dont be lured by the 1 yr warranty, road side assist, free shipping to any state bla bla bla. I would like to think that my experience was a one off and they are a trusted business. Good Luck

Yeah there was a few dodgy things happened while a certain employee worked there, but now he is gone and they are making amends to his customers even the ones that he sold personal imports to under the business name!

But now Cody is there, you will be 100%

I would still go check out the car, the guys in japan assessing the car do hundreds prob a day and dont spend much time looking over the cars..

  • 2 months later...

I purchased from them last month and I wouldn't buy another car off the again. Firstly I asked if there was rust under the mirrors and there response was "we wouldn't have a car like that in our yard" but when I arrived to inspect what did I find under the mirrors yes RUST. Secondly living interstate I had to get a roadworthy for rego. The car failed to pass roadworthy but they had it pass with there own guy. My trusted mechanic of many years said it was downright dangerous and should never of passed. Severe excessive play in the steering rack shaft. I called and spoke to Cody who said all the right things promising to call me back in 24 hours that was 2 weeks ago. I decided to get it fixed at my cost rather than have them send me to someone they know who will probably do just as there previous roadworthy and pass it.

I paid a 11k for a series one 250GT. Okay it only makes 158kw but they're not a slouch. What you will be thankfully for buy a 250GT over the rest is for the fuel economy, it demolishes the rest. I got mine down to 9lt/100km.

I was at Nagoya the other day (elgrand city that place is) try Japanese Motorsport direct in Sydney aswell, they guy who runs it is a deadest champion and the guy who sources the cars is Japanese so he know what it says in all the descriptions on the auction slips and what not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...