Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go with what you have then...gotta keep the teacher happy ;)

Duncan

the extract, for educational purposes only (copyright) is from Race Car Engineering and Mechanics - Paul Van Valkenberg, HP books and is available from http://www.bevenyoung.com.au/prdt393.htm

I can put a bit more res in, but it will be larger. Give me a couple of hours as the other half is wanting me to do a couple of things.

Great post skylinegeoff. Im currently studying 3rd year mech eng and am also interested in getting into race engineering. How did you go about finding more info about getting into the field? Also, can you recommend any other books etc that are worthwhile to read on the topic?

repost of images. the rest of the article is very race specific so I have left it out. Seriously recommend buying this text due to the broad nature. Also just good reading.

Rhett

try a search and look through that website I posted for the book. Also look at a mag called Racecar Engineer.

In melb there is Kangan Batman TAFE that runs a tech course in race mechanics as well as race engine building...worth a look. Some of the uni's have automotive engineering undergrad degrees but couldn't help me with a masters in race engineering or any of the other areas I am interested in such as automotive management.

Searching online you will find a fair amount of info as well. There is also a member on the forum who is highly experienced in race car dynamics and engineering, as well as managing a team (if it still operates after PROCAR closed down) but I won't post his details to prevent him getting bombed with questions. He already does enough and if you are truly interested you will be able to deduce his identity, or he will announce it himself, probably as he adds a mountain of relevant info to this thread.

Majanal : You wrote somewhere that you have a few suspension goodies... From a non scientific perspective, what sort of difference did good suspension make to your drifting? What difference did the locker make?

Ok, sorry about the slow reply.

I found that the suspension made the car behave in a much more controlable way, I was able to predict what it was going to do, which was sometimes "oops" lol. Made the whole car much nicer to drive and by the end of the day I was pretty much able to link the whole track.

The locker helped also as when I flawed it on the flick back it would spin both wheels instead of just the one and therefore give again more control, sounds backwards I know, but when you have one wheel spinning and one gripping it really sucks, as you have to drag that tyre around with you.

Hope that helps, if not, please feel free to ask specific questions and I'll do my best to answer!

Dan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...