Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In an attempt to clean up the top of the shit fight that is the N/A rb25 neo because I now run copper spark plugs that need replaced more often (and just for a better look) I relocated the vacume lines and one heater hose at the back above the cam covers (pictures below will explain) my car doesnt seem to pull as hard?? It idles fine, no engine lights come on or anything, it just doesnt pull as hard. Its got me stuffed, I havent broken or removed anything, just relocated it. Can anyone help?

post-78610-0-38924800-1332152449_thumb.jpg

post-78610-0-51661700-1332152463_thumb.jpg

post-78610-0-76584000-1332152474_thumb.jpg

post-78610-0-28573900-1332152485_thumb.jpg

post-78610-0-60781800-1332152495_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395252-rb25de-neo-vacume-lines/
Share on other sites

This could be monitored with a vac gauge but it sounds like you have a vac leak possibly although the rb25de isn't suppose to be a fast car . But that's what I think just make sure all the lines you changed are not leaking and all clamps are secure.

One of the hoses you have removed controls the baffle in the intake that activates for mid-range torque and power. It runs from a copper diaphram on the manifold after the throttle body. It has an actuator connected, that missing plug. with the engine running you can see it open and close when the plug is connected/disconnected. the tube going to it must NOT be blocked or bypassed. It has to go to the intake post-filter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...