Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just don't get P platers and insisting on skylines or silvias etc.

take the blinkers off your eyes mate.

go have a drive in a Renault Sport Clio 172.

1050kg

124kw

leather bolstered seats

xenon head lights

throw it in to a corner or 2 and see if you an even remember what a non turbo skyline or silvia is.

that is just one example of many good cars for P platers.

Unless you want to pose.. then my post is of no use to you.

Because not about the speed its about being part of this JDM thing, post-75998-0-00001900-1333094789_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

being all "JDM fo life, yo" is all about posing. that is what it's all about. the image. if you wanted a fun car that wasn't turbo, a NA skyline would be well down my list. in fact, i don't think there would be any rwd cars in my top 5 NA cars (if on a budget at least). don't need rwd to have fun, unless your version of fun is doing fully kebab spec burnouts

being all "JDM fo life, yo" is all about posing. that is what it's all about. the image. if you wanted a fun car that wasn't turbo, a NA skyline would be well down my list. in fact, i don't think there would be any rwd cars in my top 5 NA cars (if on a budget at least). don't need rwd to have fun, unless your version of fun is doing fully kebab spec burnouts

Somewhat True, but because you like the JDM image and your loyal to it does not make you a Poser, to be a poser you need to be an obnoxious tool about it.

correct.

which P platers in NON TURBO skylines are.

Some can be said by a lot of Turbo drivers.....im not taking your approach and saying all because that's just against logic, i know a R34 GTV owner who is not part of any car forum, does not care for the JDM scene and would make any parents proud with his driving. Simply bought it because it looked nice, low KMs and okay driving mileage...he wants a hatch back fuel efficient motor for his next car.

Both are shit slow, i'd be suprised if they could beat a V6 commodore on their best days. Wouldn't bother with trying to mod them for performance.

R34 May be neck and neck with a Commodore, but the Autech will definitely pull lengths on it.

R34 May be neck and neck with a Commodore, but the Autech will definitely pull lengths on it.

From what i've seen personally i'd be suprised if an autech was much faster if at all then an NA R34. May just be bad drivers or a badly set up car, but i haven't seen them pull impressive times for NA's.

R34 May be neck and neck with a Commodore, but the Autech will definitely pull lengths on it.

S15 Autech - 121kw 1200kg

R34 GT-V - 140kw can't find weight, but GTT is 1410kg, so the GT-V should be a solid 50kgs less.

VY Commonwhore - 152kw 1520kgs.

Me thinks you're dreaming.

plus the power from the autech is up in the rev range, so bog it down a bit off the start and the commodore will be goooooooooone. same sort of principle applies between the 141kw corolla vs a SSS pulsar. 35kw difference in peak power, but in the real world they are about as fast as each other.

S15 Autech - 121kw 1200kg

R34 GT-V - 140kw can't find weight, but GTT is 1410kg, so the GT-V should be a solid 50kgs less.

VY Commonwhore - 152kw 1520kgs.

Me thinks you're dreaming.

Clio sport - 124kw 1050kg

lol.. and can take a corner or 2.

I don't know.. I just couldn't bring myeslf to own a lesser car.. ie buying a non turbo skyline (which mind you also has shitty brakes too compared to it's turbo model) when there are so many better options when you are restricted because of your license.

Heck - I'd choose a 1987 AE82 twin cam corolla over a non turbo skyvia of some sort.

Edited by GTST

My na sticks with v6 commos unless there vy or newer, even then just wait till the twisties and I'll put them in there place haha. And to everyone saying get a shitbox till your opens, I have 4 years to save for a new car unless you get in huge debt

S15 Autech - 121kw 1200kg

R34 GT-V - 140kw can't find weight, but GTT is 1410kg, so the GT-V should be a solid 50kgs less.

VY Commonwhore - 152kw 1520kgs.

Me thinks you're dreaming.

well my mate had a Autech and he ran in the 14's , not quite sure if a NA Skyline can crack 14, its all been 15 with full interior. as for commy thats more a 15 second car too aint it ?

Correct me if im wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...