Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, as my other thread has stated, sooner or later i will need to get my hands on a rear subframe and hicas unit for the stagea.

its the narrow cradle from the RS4S, so if anyone knows if a GTR cradle fits, that would also help.

you can PM me with any advice or help

thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397311-wtb-rear-subframe-and-hicas-setup/
Share on other sites

I have one, complete with all arms and hicas you could have for $100 Its a bit rusty though.

I replaced it with an S14 one as I wanted the Hicas gone, and I wanted my rear strut bottoms to be converted to eyelet style rather than fork (I had a set of teins from my old RS4V that I wanted to fit)

I have one, complete with all arms and hicas you could have for $100 Its a bit rusty though.

I replaced it with an S14 one as I wanted the Hicas gone, and I wanted my rear strut bottoms to be converted to eyelet style rather than fork (I had a set of teins from my old RS4V that I wanted to fit)

Sorry to hijack your thread but did you manage to convert the rear coil to eyelet from the fork type? Also owning a rs four s I'm limited to the aftermarket coilovers available for purchase..

  • 1 month later...

http://www.rhdjapan....a-ec-wgnc-51562

These are the only rear fork type coilover tein produce to suit C34 series 1+2 stagea... May or may not save you a few dollars whilst they are EDFC compatible which is a bonus.

Edited by hks33

there are 2 types that Tein produce for the C34 stagea the Basic flex wagon and the Super flex. Basic flex do a super hicas model so they have the rear fork type but the super flex do not. Super flex are not super hicas compatable so they are not rear fork type. Correct me if Im wrong but from what fulcrum have told me and from what I can find on the specs online this seem to be correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...