Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its good to see you series two M35 guys know where to post. lol. :P

Alex, if the auto takes heaps away what's mine really putting out? I would think a modern auto would be nearly as efficient as a manual.

On topic, go for the 34 gtr callipers if you can as the bolt size is the same. If you want to go the cheaper 32 gtr option I can make you the spacers you need for the 12mm bolts if you want.

34 gtr? arent they brembo? i was just after the alloy 4 pots from a regular turbo model...

Brake lines, no. dust shields, probably. Hub alloy, maybe.

The only thing you need is the bolt sleeve spacers that Scott has mentioned. You don't need these if you use r34 gtt, or r34 gtr. Everything else I think you need them. Remember to get calipers with all the shims and bolts.

It's a pretty easy job if your DIY inclined.

oh yes, DIY is my first middle and last name. just need the research to be thorough and parts to be right before making myself temporarily carless.

sounds like i'll be leaning towards 34 gtt's if i can find them complete for $200

are you talking shims as in the ones between the pad and the piston?

Edited by Deep Dish V35

The earlier 32 and 33 brakes had a 12mm bolt, from the 34 onward Nissan used a 14mm bolt so you will need to put a sleeve around the 12mm bolt to space it out to the 14mm hole if you use the older front brakes.

Yes, those shims. You don't want your great new brakes to squeal like a stuck pig.

The other option if you don't want to use sleeves on the early models is you take the brakes to a fab shop, and get then to drill and thread the holes out to 14mm. Presto they fit the bolts.

$200. Your keen. Might be waiting a while then. Review your pricing guideline with a look through the brakes in the F/S section, then, factor in that you will most likely need new pads, and a disk machine. Oh, and pay Scotty for the sleeves.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...