Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

purchased a 6mt 2004 v35 coupe, the previous owner advised that the battery in the key needed replacing, however when i purchased the car and changed the batteries on both keys the doors do not lock/unlock via the keys remote so atm i am locking/unlocking the doors manually with the key which is a pain in the ass at times...

would you guys know what the problem is? please help

also the door lock switch on the drivers side works however when locking the doors the passanger side does not lock also

look forward to your help so i can get this issue fixed!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397857-centrol-locking-remote-doesnt-work/
Share on other sites

drivers door is not meant to lock via the lock button UNLESS I have touched the car then it will. the remote entry is tied to the drivers door only when that works it locks the other side by default.

new remote time btw. make sure you have the immobiliser codes or make a trip to nissan

sorry but im confused arent they meant to lock and unlock both sides cause thats the case in other cars that have that unlock button?

also is it a regular thing for oem v35 central locking remotes to cark it and not work anymore? because i have 2 of them surely they both cant be stuffed? could it be something else?

and if so how much am i looking at for a new remote?

thank you

ka86 so what is the door actuator problem for my drivers side to no lock when pressing the door lock button or for my central locking to not work on the remote?

how much would that be to buy and replace? i really want to get these problems fixed, also need to change my brakes and machine them (brembos) :S

thanks for the help.....( im really a car noob) lol

ka86 so what is the door actuator problem for my drivers side to no lock when pressing the door lock button or for my central locking to not work on the remote?

how much would that be to buy and replace? i really want to get these problems fixed, also need to change my brakes and machine them (brembos) :S

thanks for the help.....( im really a car noob) lol

It is a common problem. The actuator itself is not locking when using the remote. The bushes and rods wear out. That's why you can hear the small click of it triggering but not actually locking. Common problem and a newer OEM version was released. Not saying it is not your remote but it sounds alot like a faulty actuator. It will lock manually right?

Price wise roughly:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-OEM-INFINITI-2003-2004-G35-COUPE-RIGHT-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-BRAND-NEW-V35-/150724584284?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2317e2a35c

There is a DIY fix to mock up new rods but if your not confident than don't try.

http://g35driver.com/forums/interior-exterior/347409-5-door-lock-actuator-fix-updated-thread.html

And if you search google along the lines of 'G35 Door Actuator problem' or something like that, you will see it's a known problem.

eg;

http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/375728-problem-driver-side-door-locking-unlocking.html

This is the guide:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/315036-diy-v35-door-lock-actuator-power-window-removal/

As for insatllation wise, can't say. Depends on where you take it to. Seems to take anywhere between 2-4 hours depending on the person. Different places charge their own hourly rate. Where are you based anyways? You would have to ring around.

I also am having the same issue. It wasn't responding for awhile.. now it is working fine. However I will have to replace the actuator eventually.

My issue was that it didn't work on 2 x OEM remotes and 2x After Market Alarm FOBs. Can't really think of any other reason it is not working. :cool:

hi ka86,

thanks heaps for the useful tips, ive yet to really research door actuator problems but it seems it might be the case however just letting you know that when i press any button on the key fob that i am not hearing any clicking whatsoever so im not too sure if it is an actuator problem altogether.....very frustrating this!

oh and i am based in sydney ay, anyone know if there are any v35 meets held in sydney??? it would be good as i would gain some further knowledge on these awesome cars and check out what other people have

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...