Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Head Or Stay 25

51NNA

By 51NNA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bsa Mentor

Bsa

Posted
Posted

You're the 2nd person to say that recently

But I recall playing with on and wasn't even close?????

Maybe slight differences is some of the rear drive sumps

Or the guy had the wrong sump lol

Rb20 and 30 sumps won't fit from what iv heard

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

25 sump does fit the 26 block but a notch has to be made for the pickup I did it last week

Blake was it a Stagea block? I know they are pre-drilled for both sumps. You do need to notch out around the AWD pickup location to get the RWD sump on and then you can modify the oil pickup but cutting and brazing it to the right angle and location.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

sorry for the late reply, was playing footy, f**k id be lost without you guys haha, thanks for all your input!!!! My engines a S2 RB25 with around 80k on the clock, had a RB20 that put no' 4 and 5 through the block, holy f**k it went bang! lol also VCT isnt currently connected, because im awesome at forgetting things when i built the wiring loom i forgot the vct and wiper motor hahaha, but ile have that sorted, i played with it on the dyno and gained 40hp in the mid from just connecting it, mind you it went too about 14:1 =O, my plans were a G3 Turbo from HyperGear, but i spoke too someone who knows more about turbos then most tuners in australia lol, going with the GTX30/76 and im not going to go the FFP, just hate the look of the stock manifold

Are you wanting more or less than 300rwkw on PULP? The GTX results really haven't been stellar on PULP and sub 20psi.

If you want 300rwkw or less on PULP get a run of the mill GT3076, tried and well proven for that range. Cheaper as well.

The GTX you really need to stuff more boost into it, and E85. Which will see you to 350rwkw easily with 7500rpm, but that's going beyond stock motor limits realistically if you want to last for a reasonable amount of time

Bsa Mentor

Bsa

Posted
Posted

Blake was it a Stagea block? I know they are pre-drilled for both sumps. You do need to notch out around the AWD pickup location to get the RWD sump on and then you can modify the oil pickup but cutting and brazing it to the right angle and location.

Na it was a 32 gtr motor I just tiged all the pipe to make a pickup but I'm not sure on if the pickup has to be changed if you look on my build thread there are photos of it on there

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Are you wanting more or less than 300rwkw on PULP? The GTX results really haven't been stellar on PULP and sub 20psi.

If you want 300rwkw or less on PULP get a run of the mill GT3076, tried and well proven for that range. Cheaper as well.

The GTX you really need to stuff more boost into it, and E85. Which will see you to 350rwkw easily with 7500rpm, but that's going beyond stock motor limits realistically if you want to last for a reasonable amount of time

I was considering just going a GT30/76, but im going to be running E85 and possibly WMI aswell so fingers crossed i wont have too run much over 18psi and i defently wont be running over 20psi lol, ile also be buying the 6boost twin scroll manifold, .82 twin scroll exhaust housing on the GTX 30/76 and a plazman manifold, 1000cc DI injectors twin 300lph fuel pumps and eventually when the S2 RB25 pops ile just buy a neo and build it, i figure ile regret buying just a GT series later down the track when i want more power.

Edited by 51NNA
51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If it was just a street car id get one of the Thailand made turbos from kando or hypergear but im not going too risk it, 1600 for a billet wheel hypergear or 1750 for a garret, what would you go? lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...