Jump to content
SAU Community

Slight Stutter When Ac Is On..?

75coupe

By 75coupe,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Ive noticed that when I have the AC on the car has like a slight miss or stutter occasionally, its very minimal, and Ive only noticed it when cruising, not on the power.

Would this be a tune issue or would it point to one of the air valves on the plenum having a prob?

It has a forward facing plenum and I plumbed all the IAC or AAC valves in

build specs are as per signature.

turn AC off and of course problem goes away...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398099-slight-stutter-when-ac-is-on/
Share on other sites
DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

Mine has done the same thing since day one, I think it's just a slight load type difference when the compressor comes on and off.

I asked my tuner about it years ago and he reckons its nothing to worry about.

Annoys me though, like a little "blip" every now and then yeh???

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

To state the obvious, turning the AC on puts a higher load on the front pulleys including the one that runs the alternator.

It also puts a higher load on the cars electrical system as it energizes a clutch pack on the AC pump and runs the rest of the system (fans internal/external, drier, controls etc.)

So anyway, moral of the story is... Put an earth kit together and strap it to all the right places. That should fix it.

There are about 1000 wires connected to the positive circuit and one 20 year old earth strap that bolts onto the body and motor in 1 spot each (assuming your car still has factory earthing). As we learn in high school science, energy cannot be created or destroyed, only transferred. So in theory there's no where near the same return wiring as there are wires drawing away from the battery. Its a circuit, that's how it works (don't flame me saying you know, I'm putting it out there for future readers who might not).

GL

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So the earthing kits actually do have a real useful purpose...?? Hmmm

I just thought it was another semi useless mod that people did, like pod filter or engine shock absorber..

So earthing kit should stop that from happening?

And its not a tune issue?

Cause i didnt notice this before, its only been since the last tune, maybe he did something to change the earthing, maybe?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...