Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so this is it I've had a oil leak in my r32 gts4 since I've had it (4weeks) and I have had it with putting card borde and shit under my car :( I have located the leak coming from just under the the manifold at the rear of the motor I can see it dripping down under the manifold on it my external waste gate I got a mirror and I can see the oil forming on the bottom of the manifold bolts but can oil come from there and if not whats around that area that the oil

Could leak from?? HELP!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398382-major-oil-leak-help/
Share on other sites

Have a look above the manifold. It is extremely common for the rockers to leak.

^^^this is where it will be coming from, replace both rocker cover gaskets including the half moon seals and that will fix it

  • 2 months later...

I was going to sugest your oil drain line from your turbo.

Give it a good clean with degreaser and a high pressure hose, get it as clean as you can.

Then start having a look and see were it is coming from.

Could be the gasket has poped, or a bolt isn't tight enough and the prssure is casuing it to come out when the engine is running.

yeah thats what i first thought so i replaced the gasket, degreased the shit out of it and lay under the car with it running and i could see oil slowly bubbling out from one of the bolts that goes through the turbo core into the compressor housing. I couldnt get a socket or spanner up there to tighten the bastard up tho. Also seems to be leaking from above the manifold at the back some where. The joys of a 23yr old rb20det i guess

i got this problem also have you done a 100k service on the car yet, its a O ring seal that needs to be replaced which gets replaced when you do a 100k service, most ppl know the name of this seal but i forgot it hope some one can elaborate on that

yea thats it the cam and crank shaft seals should be replaced with that 200k service but its also called 100k , which water pump crank and cam pully and seals along with the belts should get changed on that service if it hasnt been done then take it back to ppl and say you didint do the right job and get them to do it,

other than that get a water pressure test to see if it is headgasket, i did on mien and was all good, and a cylinder compression test which i going to do that next

Edited by BRUNSKIGTST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...