Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so this is it I've had a oil leak in my r32 gts4 since I've had it (4weeks) and I have had it with putting card borde and shit under my car :( I have located the leak coming from just under the the manifold at the rear of the motor I can see it dripping down under the manifold on it my external waste gate I got a mirror and I can see the oil forming on the bottom of the manifold bolts but can oil come from there and if not whats around that area that the oil

Could leak from?? HELP!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398382-major-oil-leak-help/
Share on other sites

Have a look above the manifold. It is extremely common for the rockers to leak.

^^^this is where it will be coming from, replace both rocker cover gaskets including the half moon seals and that will fix it

  • 2 months later...

I was going to sugest your oil drain line from your turbo.

Give it a good clean with degreaser and a high pressure hose, get it as clean as you can.

Then start having a look and see were it is coming from.

Could be the gasket has poped, or a bolt isn't tight enough and the prssure is casuing it to come out when the engine is running.

yeah thats what i first thought so i replaced the gasket, degreased the shit out of it and lay under the car with it running and i could see oil slowly bubbling out from one of the bolts that goes through the turbo core into the compressor housing. I couldnt get a socket or spanner up there to tighten the bastard up tho. Also seems to be leaking from above the manifold at the back some where. The joys of a 23yr old rb20det i guess

i got this problem also have you done a 100k service on the car yet, its a O ring seal that needs to be replaced which gets replaced when you do a 100k service, most ppl know the name of this seal but i forgot it hope some one can elaborate on that

yea thats it the cam and crank shaft seals should be replaced with that 200k service but its also called 100k , which water pump crank and cam pully and seals along with the belts should get changed on that service if it hasnt been done then take it back to ppl and say you didint do the right job and get them to do it,

other than that get a water pressure test to see if it is headgasket, i did on mien and was all good, and a cylinder compression test which i going to do that next

Edited by BRUNSKIGTST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...