Jump to content
SAU Community

help please oh god some1 help meeee! =p

robert112
 Share

Recommended Posts

robert112 Apprentice

robert112

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I recently bought a 95 r33 GTS-T and got my grandfather (mechanic but knows nothing about turbo's) to change my oil and oil filter. I saw him pour just over 4 litres in and thought 'isn' t that too much?' the oil checker showed full.

Then I installed a second hand bleed valve and just guessed the correct measurement, gave it flat stick and noticed that the needle had moved up to the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken. Thrilled with the massive power increase I took it up to 4th gear twice. Then I took the bleedvalve off to try and feel the power difference. To my HORROR and shock I noticed a huge cloud of smoke blowing out of my exhaust. Now I'm burning up oil and the smoke is still there. (although the smoke isn't as bad as when it first happened). I thought the problem went away because it was still spooling fine on stock boost and couldn't really see the smoke anymore but that night I went to the runs, and noticed my oil went from full to low. It's burning oil and I assume I've blown a turbo seal maybe? Okay now here's the question:

1) Does anyone know a good mechanic?

2) What do I do?

3) How much do you think it will cost assuming turbo needs replacing?

DentonR33 Rising Star

DentonR33

Posted
Posted

I'd have a guess and say that you would be up for an engine rebuild :(

you have probably blown a piston ring

Stock fuel pumps arent that good and increasing boost without a tune is a recipe for detonation, especially 4th gear runs..

MSPEC Mentor

MSPEC

Posted
Posted

If the engine sounds okay you might be right, more like the turbo. The turbo can burn lots ot oil very quickly creating lots of smoke :( So this could be the problem, for your sake lets hope so!

otto Collaborator

otto

Posted
Posted

If you definatly know its the turb and you do the work yourself you will get away with it for whatever you pick the std turbo up for see in the for sale section. If there isnt one for sale do a search there would have been in the past and it will give you an idea of what there worth.

The job is pretty sraight forward (just 4 lines with banjo fittings and bolts and hose clamps hear and there to attach manifolds etc. from memory) its abit fiddly but you save $$$ and get the satasfaction of doin it yourself and learn abit more about your car.

Dont know how much a mec would charge have to be afew hours at least.

Good luck, hope it doesnt end up being anything to serious.

Theres a good chance its not gonna be anything to serious with the engine if youve still got std ecu correct me if im wrong but if you dialed in tomuch boost you would have hit fuel cut well before the std pump ran out of huff, i mean whats the point in nissan putting that sort of protection on the car if its gonna lean out and destroy the engine before it kicks in. The std ecu is very protective of the engine but i guess anything can happen

BigDatto Proficient

BigDatto

Posted
Posted

Tell your Grandpa to do a compression test. If that checks out, your problem is most likely turbo related. Provided a wheel hasn't contacted a housing, it can be rebuilt & balanced to better than factory specs for very reasonable cost.

Hope that helps ya out, Bro.

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

(the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken.)

6 or 7psl would be more accurate. 7mmhg is about 14.5psi. and the only line between 0 and 7 is halfway inbetween. B est advice I can give you is..........

1) STOP making assumptions

2) Forget all the advice you've just read in this thread

3) Search this forum to find a "well thought of workshop"

4) Go to them before you do anything else stupid

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted
(the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken.)

 6 or 7psl would be more accurate.   7mmhg is about 14.5psi. and the only line between 0 and 7 is halfway inbetween.    B est advice I can give you is..........

1)  STOP making assumptions

2)  Forget all the advice you've just read in this thread

3)  Search  this forum to find a "well thought of workshop"

4)  Go to them before you do anything else stupid

:werd:

robert112 Apprentice

robert112

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you every1

I believe my engine is fine because I still have power and no sounds at all.

I can rev the **** out of it up to 7 grand, it performs great.

Oil burns, so I think OTTO is right about the turbo burning up the oil.

HOPEFULLY ! hehe

what i would do is take it to a mechanic and get them to tell you whats wrong with it. pay them the money and then you go out and fix the problems yourself.

There is plenty of stuff in these forums going to sale.

Yes LAL thanks for that advise I think I will do that actually.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted
Now I'm burning up oil and the smoke is still there. (although the smoke isn't as bad as when it first happened).  

Do you have oil coming out of your BOV? Higher boost means more blow by, which means more oil through the intake. This can cause alot of oil to be burnt.

If you think you can give it a go (get grandad to help) try pulling an intercooler pipe off, and checking for oil inside it. If you can find alot of oil there, that MAY be your problem, esp if everything else is ok except for the smoke.

If there is oil through the pipes, clean them out. Also, remove the intercooler and give it a flush with metho or similar - clean all the sh1t out.

If you ever have to turn up the boost again, fit a decent catch can. Not always necessary, but better safe than sorry. Oil mixing with the intake charge isnt ideal.

OR, as Neil points out, take your car to an appropriate mechanic.

Debo Rookie

Debo

Posted
Posted

I am running 14 psi on my gtst. Have no problems now. Have a duel stage turbo smart controler. All i had to do was change the spark plugs and put the right gap on them. Also get the timing right. Running standed ecu and intercooler. Don't get fuel cut in any gear apart from 5th and that is only of doing 100 to 125 kms after that fine. For any more details goto http://www.mrdperformance.biz/ they to all the work on my car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...