Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the tps on nistune cars is insanely sensitive my tps was no kidding a pube hair off and the car would go nuts , ashley put his laptop on it and even he said it was mad sensitive( i set it by ear and feel after my carbon removal of throttle plate lol) , check your throttle manifold gasket mine was a tiny tiny leak and the car wouldnt run good enough to even drive 10kph it would stall slowly , hunt around and misfire unreal just on boost had to use blue rtv till my nissan gasket came from the moon 3 days to get one here ffs

The tps can throw errors but its rare , once TB cleaned it was way off and i had to set by ear and feel till i had a laptop on it , the 34 manual has the voltage specs to test it

This maybe a shot in the dark but reset your ecu i did and it cleared my other issue ( nistune ecu base program) and unplug and use electronics cleaner on tps and cas connection and some silicone spray once plugged back in to repel moisture

i would seriously fix that T on the fuel reg a leak can run your motor lean - motor go boom in a flash and then you can pour the broken rings and melted piston out the r34 has a vacuum pickup in the back near brake hose vacuum? its rubber plugged from factory

Your sure the TB blade backside is clean a tiny bit of carbon fouls the idle and it hunts around while the tps tries to sort it out ?

if thats all good

Air leak between manifold and afm , most likely behind the engine area near firewall ( the maf sensor on firewall area ) or near afm

you cleaned the afm with maf cleaner and reset ecu ? checked the plug for corrosion ? oil film on hot wire and it all goes south ?

your airfilter is clean ??? pcv clean or removed to catch can with feedback loop ?

Plug gap set right ? clean ? And tight ? (Screw top plugs tight if that applies to yours ?)

Low voltage at fuel pump ? common issue with upgrades , check grounds by pump

If not then a bad spray pattern or clogged , leaky injector , dirty poor fuel ?

fuel pump clog if the car has ever had e10 or e85 in it , it dislodges tank rust and eats rubber even in small doses

CAS not sitting flat and tight or bad plug ? But that throws errors in most cases

Did you change your tyre air as specified ? common problem hahaha

And god forbid a timing belt flapping around on a broken idler pulley tensioner ( doubt it but they can break off and drop the belt !) that usually sorts it self out quick , leaves you stranded

go see ashley tell him troy sent ya his shop is behind hungry jacks area in hackam off south rd

ha ha looks like im spending anzac day checking as much as i can on my car!

ill let u know what i find by tonight, either way if i dont find the problem, ill take it to your mate hopefully before the weekend.

Thanks again!

mmmmk so after all my checks, it all came back clear... still have my problem.

But i spoke to matt from nistune, and he seems to share my thought pattern on the injectors being the issue.

Xspurt injectors are a modified bosch.

Some people love them, but im finding quickly most tuners do not.

either way i have purchase some new injectors, hoping that this will solve my issues.

  • 5 years later...

sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm just curious to know what the problem was and if you have gotten it solved? I only ask because I'm currently having this issue with my 1999 GTT and it's driving me insane trying to figure out what it is. Any help would be appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...