Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently sold my WRX, and we're back to just having our little Pulsar.

Now I'm working in the mines, my budget has slightly increased for our next car.

I was pretty set on buying a Stagea, but now I have seriously been thinking about a EVO 7.5 GT-A.

They are described as being a mix of sports and luxury. Are they just an EVO 7 with different interior, and auto box?

How interchangeable are parts between EVO 7 and the GT-A?

Any one had a drive of one?

Here are some on car sales i was perusing.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-lancer-2002-10948242?base=1216&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&page=1&eapi=2&sort=Price&cr=6&__N=1246%201247%201252%201282%204294964597%204294966896%201216&silo=Stock&find=evo%207%20gt-a|CarAll

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-lancer-2002-11407417?base=1216&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&page=1&eapi=2&sort=Price&cr=7&__N=1246%201247%201252%201282%204294964597%204294966896%201216&silo=Stock&find=evo%207%20gt-a|CarAll

Cheers adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398566-mitsubishi-evo-75-gt-a/
Share on other sites

That first one is running 20psi, Im no evo expert but is that fairly high???

yeah it is i guess. to be honest it was just a quick example off carsales for they guys who hadn't seen one before.

Nah them are WRXs run stupid levels of bost compared to skylines.

true, my old rexy ran 21psi on high boost.

Very small fuel tank

I was looking @ 1 a while ago & this put me off

really? i spose they like to drink it pretty quick too

i had a mate who is a mad evo fanboy describe them to me as 'the biggest money pits out of all the evo's'.. not sure how correct this is or not.

i drove one awhile a go i was looking at buying. bloody nice to drive and a goes well in standard form. yes the tank is a bit small but you work around it. i like the benefit of the auto with the EVO running gear.

fairly snappy if you are up it. had a couple of them.

i know next to nothing about the reliability of EVO's. would you say the the 'money pit' advice i was given was anywhere near correct?

if its virigin and you simply intend to drive it - I would say it will be fine. if you start fiddling with it - yes it will become a money pit very quickly. nothing seems to happen with these until you hit about 4k then its gone.

The GT-As run a slightly smaller turbo which gives it a fatter midrange with less top end. It works really nicely with the auto and short-shifting second-third out of corners is an awesome feeling. They came with a wide variety of options (i.e Recaro front seats are optional, as is the regular Evo 7 rear wing) and a number of colours that were never available in the regular Evo 7s, so make sure you look carefully at what you're getting. It's fairly common to switch to the Evo 8 MR factory turbo (or even the normal Evo 7 turbo), as they can easily handle 22psi for daily use.

The tiptronic box, however, is prone to overheating, and replacing/repairing it is where the expense comes in. Basically, get a trans cooler if you plan to do any mods to the motor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...