Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I have a r32 gtst and I am thinking about selling it and getting a r32 gts4 but not to sure if its worth it or not?

the reason I am posting this is because I am going to look at one today and not to sure what to look for so I have a few questions.

how can you tell if the the awd system is stuffed or not?

is it hard to install the switch to make it rwd only?

are there any major common problems that occur with them that i should look for?

also seeing as there not all time awd do all the wheels have to be the same width like evos and rexs or can you have staggered?

over all my question is,should i get rid of my 32 gtst for a 32 gts4?

any other information on them would be greatly appreciated

I have tried searching this info but I didn't come across any thing that really helped.

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398591-should-i-get-an-r32-gts4/
Share on other sites

i love to go GT-R but i don't exactly have the money for that haha. i know rwd is fun but id also want something that sticks to the road and im not to sure how well the gts4 performs, if its not that much better than the gtst i may as well keep it, but how i have never driven one or been in one it makes it a bit hard to decide.

If it's no good, there are plenty of other awd options out there :P

there is..

there are plenty of awd cars but there not able to switch between awd and rwd, my girlfriend has a wrx and after a week or so of driving it i get bored that's why i was thinking of getting a gts4

and not true. there are a few other brands that run a similar idea (all be it more modden).

It all depends on what YOU want from the car.

Assuming your car is stock (motor) and the gts4 is then you will find it slower than the gtst because of all the fwd gear. you can run stagered wheel sizes as long as the ROLLING diameter is the same.

So why do you want a gts4? plan on putting a rb26 or something in it?

what do you want from the car? you said grip but also the ability to use only rwd, why?

what i would want from it is to be more of an all round fun car, off track or on track if i ever took it.

i would look into putting an rb26 or a neo rb25.

so if my rims are 18/8 front and 18/9 back with 235/40 all round i can run that?

i would like to have rwd in case I wanted to try get into drifting or every now and then have a celebratory skid, but most the time i would have awd on its more to know it can do it if i want it to.

seeing as i have never driven a gts4 before i wouldn't know how much better it would handle compared to the gtst.

mate if it is going to stay RB20, then don't buy one.

they weigh more than a GTR and have the same power as a GTST.

You can't have different sized tyres either.

just like a GTR, you have to have same tyres all round.

if you have different size rims from to rear but same size tyres, that might work, but I would have thought that it still kind of alters the diameter as one tyre side wall will be more stretched than the other.

how to test if it's working? 6k revs then side step clutch.

Installing a rwd/2wd switch is piss easy.

If you are definitely doing an RB25 or 26 conversion, then fine, but even after that, you have a car heavier than a GTR.

Should you sell your GTST for a GTS4?

NO!

i would have thought a gts4 coupe would way less than the gtr? what makes its heavier?

not sure if the owner would be to happy i launch it when i go look at it haha.

if i was to get one i would defiantly swap the engine out, but if the end result ends up being a lot heavier then a gtr then i think i would rather wait until i can afford a one instead of going through the effort of working a gts4.

thanks for the help hopefully make it easier to decide.

Gtr has light bonnet and guards.

Goes a long way.

My gts4 was 1490kg

Gtr is listed as 1450kg

Gts4 feels more lively because of the gearing.

Seriously man, keep the gtst till you a afford a gtr.

Finding a gts4, then a stagea rb25 or rb26, then having it fitted will get you in to cheap gtr territory.

I almost bought a 94 r32 gtr for $12k and it turned out it had low compression on on pot.

The guy offered to go down to $10k but I still left it.

And that car had about $5k worth of turbos and associated mods to make 280awkw.

At best a gts4 will be about $5k for a nugget.

Engine conversion will be another $5k to $10k depending on what you buy and get done.

And then you still don't have the good seats or guards, bonnet, front bar.

Not worth it.

Buy my GTS4 with an RB26 already in it. Save yourself thousands of dollars in pain. Problem solvered. :)

sell it for 11k and i will haha if i had the money i would defiantly look into it. looks awesome man, looks like a shit load of work has gone in to it

you're confusing rolling diameter with width.

as long he runs the same size side wall then he will be fine.

so the width doesn't affect it at all? so long as i have the same rolling diameter all round should be fine then, i thought they would all have to be the same sizes

might just end up keeping my gtst for now anyway seeing as the gts4 i went to look at was shit house and the others are more than i can afford at the moment.

sell it for 11k and i will haha if i had the money i would defiantly look into it. looks awesome man, looks like a shit load of work has gone in to it

so the width doesn't affect it at all? so long as i have the same rolling diameter all round should be fine then, i thought they would all have to be the same sizes

might just end up keeping my gtst for now anyway seeing as the gts4 i went to look at was shit house and the others are more than i can afford at the moment.

the system uses the abs sensors to calculate if any of the wheels are spinning (slip) any faster than the others. so if you have different size rolling diameters between front/back it will see it as one set moving faster than the other and not operate correctly.

In my opinion it is better to have the same width front to back but that is just me.

Edited by Boss-zilla

Even if you have the same size tyres (235/45), I would have thought that the one fitted to a 9 inch tyre would have less rolling diameter compared to when fitted to a 8 inch rim due to the stretch in the sidewall causing the tyre to stretch a little.

but my brain works in different ways....... when it works.

Even if you have the same size tyres (235/45), I would have thought that the one fitted to a 9 inch tyre would have less rolling diameter compared to when fitted to a 8 inch rim due to the stretch in the sidewall causing the tyre to stretch a little.

but my brain works in different ways....... when it works.

well i thought the same thing so your not the only one haha, good to know that you can run staggered though, thanks for the help guys. Edited by swimming lemon

Even if you have the same size tyres (235/45), I would have thought that the one fitted to a 9 inch tyre would have less rolling diameter compared to when fitted to a 8 inch rim due to the stretch in the sidewall causing the tyre to stretch a little.

but my brain works in different ways....... when it works.

well i thought the same thing so your not the only one haha, good to know that you can run staggered though, thanks for the help guys.

you are both correct but if you had an 8 and 9 you would run a 225 and 235/45 (as example). correct width tyre shouldnt stretch.

how do you figure a 225 and 235 by 45 on an 18 inch rim would have same rolling diameter?

punch it in to here

http://www.miata.net...e/tirecalc.html

there is like a 9mm difference in diameter.

anyway.. who cares..

the answer to the question "should I sell an R32 GTST and buy an R32 GTS4?" is f**k no!

Edited by GTST

sorry i was only using the sizes as an example the point was you get the correct tyre for the rim width what ever it is but make sure the side wall sizes are the same between front back.

Should have made that a little clearer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...