Jump to content
SAU Community

High Flow Rb25 Turbo Or Trust Td06 Direct Bolt On. Ecu Is Tuned For Tdo6 But Costs More ?


Recommended Posts

well that all depends how much experience you have had working on cars..

if you regularly service your own car and know how to spin a spanner, its not overly difficult..

If you have never changed a spark plug, it could well be a nightmare..

wait a minute you have an rb25...and the setup your buying is off an rb20...none of its gunna work bud...

sorry...I somehow missed the bit that said RB25 and GTS-4..

no wonder everybody is so quiet.....thanx kunce... :blush:

Highflow turbos where good 10 years ago because everything was a lot more expensive so it was a cheap option snd fairly effective in saying that they are now out done by cheaper turbos. The td06 is a perfect turbo for a 20 iv used one myself and after using both turbos you have listed the td06 is much better

The age, who made the highflow and what specs it has been highflowed to will mean more than generically terming highflows to be inferior/obsolete compared to cheaper turbos. Only difference between a new turbo and a high flow = retaining factory housings of the existing turbo. If you machine the housings to suit the wheels and don't run into any flow restrictions, there's no reason you can't make all the power of the new turbo. Hence my highflow SS1PU makes all the power it's supposed to in ATR43 guise. The cheap turbos have come a long way, but so have highflows.

The age, who made the highflow and what specs it has been highflowed to will mean more than generically terming highflows to be inferior/obsolete compared to cheaper turbos. Only difference between a new turbo and a high flow = retaining factory housings of the existing turbo. If you machine the housings to suit the wheels and don't run into any flow restrictions, there's no reason you can't make all the power of the new turbo. Hence my highflow SS1PU makes all the power it's supposed to in ATR43 guise. The cheap turbos have come a long way, but so have highflows.

I understand they have developed over the years but I'm my experience with them I won't use them again iv used both a 25 highflow and a td06 and I would much rather a td06. To the op the 20 setup will work if you use a rb20 tps and buy a td06h-20g 10cm or td06sl2-20g 10cm. I used the td06h 8cm on a rb20 and it made a very fast car and fun to drive. All that really needs deciding on is if you want internal gate or external gate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...