Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Read this today and wondered what you discerning technologically minded folks thought..

http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/information-highway-top-25-car-apps-20120426-1xmx9.html

found this the most intruiging review

Car Tools

Drive Favourite

iPhone, free

This is an app that mimics a VBOX GPS-based data logger to measure speed and position of a moving vehicle — except that it is free. In addition to measuring current speed (in digital or analogue formats), it records G-forces (similar to HSV’s latest data logger) and comes with a powerful little chronometer to record your performance times across varying distances (such as 0-400metres and 0-1000metres) and 0-100km/h times. The performance functions include a drag-strip lighting sequence, false-start detection and a comprehensive post-run review that can be emailed, printed or added to world rankings. Not easyto read on the go but ideal for the racing enthusiast and best reserved for the track or closed road. And we’ll reiterate — don’t use your mobile phone while driving.

and then this one...who uses this?

Dynolicious

iPhone, $13.99

Dynolicious is more advanced than the Car Tools app, with greaterusability for engine tuners and legal,

off-street drag racers. Its features include the ability to measure engine power output like a dynamometer — hence the app’s name — once you’ve entered the vehicle’s weight. You can also record vehicle modifications and evaluate the resulting gains (or losses) in power and performance. Surprisingly accurate and great value, it’s a worthy step up from Car Tools.

it doesnt specify if you can use it as a laptimer but wow that would be some good value if so!

Trapsters an obvious good value app as well but im yet to use it effectively, also curious about this one...

"

BMW Ultimate Drive

Android/iPad/iPhone, free

A bit like cycling and running app Strava, except it’s for driving enthusiasts and not so much about bragging rights. You don’t need to drive a BMW, either. Instead, it helps you discover entertaining roads, which are added and rated by other users. Once you get past the blatant advertising, it’s a handy map-based app for those days when you have a driving itch to scratch and time to spare. Also comes with the latest news from the Bavarian brand to whet the appetite of enthusiasts.

"

seems like a great idea other than the heavy handed BMW marketing behind it, anyone know of one less biased toward Barvarian car manufactuers?

K curious to hear you thoughts people!

i used one of those dyno apps that work off the accelerometer. my best was about 1300hp while sitting at my desk. there are so many flaws in them it isn't funny. unless you put in accurate COD, weight, etc they are extremely innacurate. would be somewhat better for 0-100 times based off GPS, but given that lag that most GPS systems in phones have, they will somewhat innacurate.

have used trapster. it's good if you aren't familiar to an area, but for mobile speed cameras it's only good if someone has gone past the camera before you and logged that it's there.

the bmw seems ok, but i'm sure there are other things out there like it if you didn't want all the bmw branding.

the only car type app i use is mileage (android). it keeps track of fuel economy.

I've got trackmaster, I set it up at Wakie and it seemed fine, I did forget to start it though and the car dropped oil and I dropped my show bags, I will give it a good run on the 19 may at Wakie and compare the results to NATSOFT and see how close it is.

If I remember to start it that is...

Yes and No

The Iphail on has a 1hz refresh on the GPS, so if you want +/- 1 sec results than it's ok

if you want it to be more accurate you can buy a better 5hz GPS reciever to plug into the phone

and how much do those set you back? 1 second is far too much time to be plus or minus for track days, bought a GPS track thing of Eric but its yet to work for me, having one on the phone as a back up would be awesome.

Im sure i can get the one i have to work somehow but curious about the APP stuff thats available.

Tells you where all the speed cameras and more importantly the radar traps are, as long as someone has spotted them and told the app before you fly through that is..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...