Jump to content
SAU Community

Change Diff From A-Lsd To Mechanical

tricstar
 Share

Recommended Posts

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

ok due to the head fxxk of the A-LSD, I've decided to change to a mechanical LSD,

so do I just need the standard diff housing? can it be an R32 GTR one ( my car is R33 GTR ), is there any difference? also will the drive shafts and tail shaft bolt staight up to the standard diff?

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Get one to suit a 33gtr and everything will bolt up. Go new though as usually you get everything you will need, instead of going 2nd hand and having stuff missing

but from what I have read, I need to change the whole diff housing as there is no after market diff centre to fit into the Active-LSD housing?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I just went through it all. :)

You need to change diff housing to a R33 GTR Non V-Spec. Not expensive, can get them for 200-300 2nd hand.

I thought you needed the non-spec shafts as they are different lengths when you measure.

But it turns out the actual shafts are the same length, it's the coupling big (forget the technical name, bit where the shaft connects with) that is slightly different and I believe it can be purchase separate if you cannot get shafts to suit

Makes it easier/faster if you can get the housing with the shafts together obviously.

The car with a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro is 10000% better than with the crappy A-LSD, which has no upgrade options.

It's set to the lowest lock setting and still locks incredibly hard when you want, very predictable. Any more I think would be too much.

My car now behaves like a RWD car in terms of hooking around @ a motorkhana with a bit of clutch or trailing throttle lock-up and turn - yet straighten the wheels and it 4 wheel power slides nicely or grips and goes depending on what you want.

Also induces some good mid corner oversteer where previously it would just understeer/plough off terribly doing the same things ;)

I didn't realise how bad the A-LSD was until changing over... I don't wanna sell the car now it's changed it that much

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I don't know mate - I was told to get a R33 rear end specifically.

I know the part numbers for R32 & R33 are the same in terms of the Nismo differential... Doesn't mean the housings are though...

Someone will be able to confirm though 100%

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
Posted

I just did this in my gtst. I bought a second hand regular gtst diff and just threw it in.... everything fitted up fine for me, the only thing i needed was a new set of nuts and bolts to connect the halfshafts to the axles as the a-lsd halfshafts were threaded and the gtst ones were not....

Ripped out the pump and reservoir as well.

At the time I just shimmed the new diff, but thats shit and only lasted a few weeks and I absolutely locked the fark out of it.... next mod is either a kaaz or nismo centre.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ye that doesn't surprise me.

Ideally yes you want diff & axles. It just makes it a simple bolt in/out (once you do the centre.)

But... if you can't get the shafts, you can use your v-spec ones as they are the same length. It's just the the coupling bit that's the different length betweeen VS and non-VS (the technical name for the part still escapes me)...

I can find out the proper name and shit next week exactly and report back. I doubt you'll find a R33 non-VS rear in a couple days. I was looking for a good 2 months for one priced appropriately.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

spoke to a mate in the know last night and the R32 GTR diff and axles is a touch shorter...

so I'm after a R33 GTR non-Vspec diff and axles, anyone ??

Yes they are, I have measured them as I have a R32 GTR diff. from a 1994 car to replace my A-LSD. Just need some spacers machined, from memory it is only about 5mm.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK I've got the Non V-spec diff and axles,

now I have a few questions about what to do regarding the hydraulics and electrics?

My thinking is, just block off the hydraulics from the pump under the car and rip everything from there to the diff out.. I'm thinking I shouldn't need to cut or disconnect any wiring (except the obvious between pump and diff) as the new diff will be locked before any signal is sent.? Being that the A-LSD is on the same circuit as the AWD I don't want to hack it and then get faults with the AWD ?

How do others do it ? What have you blocked off, cut etc?? (Nismoid)?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

cool, can you also have a look and see if they blocked off the line from reservoir in the boot or just the line from solenoid to diff?I should do a DIY when I do the swap for future reference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just_a_datsun
      RB26 block, rb26 head

      By Just_a_datsun · Posted

      Block bump. $400. As above cyl 6 needs bore or sleeve.
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I would think making the argument that the travel is limited by a spring flexing against a spring perch as "the same method". Later on in the document they do state that the spring can't bind on full bump travel and cannot come loose in full rebound travel as well. (which is all very sensible). The laws are actually pretty sensible and reasonable. It's just that the people who enforce and check them don't actually read them or know them accurately. "Oh, coilovers? Instant fail mate. Don't even need to look at it." - Guy who will be instantly reported by me. There is probably merit to people who do get defected for height also get defected for the suspension in that state that allows it. I did never consider the people who are complaining about coilovers being picked on are also running around at 50mm off the floor.
    • Kinkstaah
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think given SAU's knowledge of E85 we can strongly conclude that 10% ethanol in almost any situation is entirely fine. Almost all of the myths against E85 were overblown, let alone E10.
    • The Bogan
      Blue slip

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From your link See bold text, is this referring to damper settings, if so that may a issue for "some" inspectors, I cannot see aftermarket coilovers having the evidence that "must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original" Maybe just remove the adjustment knows and hope for the best???? Meh 5.2 Suspension travel In all instances, modifications to a vehicle’s suspension must ensure the integrity of the system and not compromise the ride quality. At least two thirds of the original suspension travel should be maintained in both directions (rebound (i.e. extension) and bump (i.e. compression)), and rebound must be limited by the same method used by the vehicle manufacturer or if this is not practicable due to the nature of the modification, an equivalent method. If an alternative method is used, evidence must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original.
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      They actually don't - They adhere to VSB14 rules just like Victoria. The rules are against CABIN adjustable height, and it quite clearly states that the height has to be within parameters. I asked the VASS engineer to confirm this when I got my car engineered and they refused to engineer the coilovers because they didn't meet the requirements for requiring engineering. (mine are height adjustable.) People "Not wanting to bother" with "Actually reading/knowing/adhering to the rules" should result in fines and immediately losing the ability to issue blue slips and/or RWC's in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...