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Change Diff From A-Lsd To Mechanical


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ok due to the head fxxk of the A-LSD, I've decided to change to a mechanical LSD,

so do I just need the standard diff housing? can it be an R32 GTR one ( my car is R33 GTR ), is there any difference? also will the drive shafts and tail shaft bolt staight up to the standard diff?

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Get one to suit a 33gtr and everything will bolt up. Go new though as usually you get everything you will need, instead of going 2nd hand and having stuff missing

but from what I have read, I need to change the whole diff housing as there is no after market diff centre to fit into the Active-LSD housing?

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I just went through it all. :)

You need to change diff housing to a R33 GTR Non V-Spec. Not expensive, can get them for 200-300 2nd hand.

I thought you needed the non-spec shafts as they are different lengths when you measure.

But it turns out the actual shafts are the same length, it's the coupling big (forget the technical name, bit where the shaft connects with) that is slightly different and I believe it can be purchase separate if you cannot get shafts to suit

Makes it easier/faster if you can get the housing with the shafts together obviously.

The car with a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro is 10000% better than with the crappy A-LSD, which has no upgrade options.

It's set to the lowest lock setting and still locks incredibly hard when you want, very predictable. Any more I think would be too much.

My car now behaves like a RWD car in terms of hooking around @ a motorkhana with a bit of clutch or trailing throttle lock-up and turn - yet straighten the wheels and it 4 wheel power slides nicely or grips and goes depending on what you want.

Also induces some good mid corner oversteer where previously it would just understeer/plough off terribly doing the same things ;)

I didn't realise how bad the A-LSD was until changing over... I don't wanna sell the car now it's changed it that much

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That's awesome. Thanks Nismoid. Just to clarify is the r32 diff and shafts compatable. Only ask because there is a whole rear diff and shafts for sale ATM with a 1.5 Nismo in it.

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I don't know mate - I was told to get a R33 rear end specifically.

I know the part numbers for R32 & R33 are the same in terms of the Nismo differential... Doesn't mean the housings are though...

Someone will be able to confirm though 100%

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I just did this in my gtst. I bought a second hand regular gtst diff and just threw it in.... everything fitted up fine for me, the only thing i needed was a new set of nuts and bolts to connect the halfshafts to the axles as the a-lsd halfshafts were threaded and the gtst ones were not....

Ripped out the pump and reservoir as well.

At the time I just shimmed the new diff, but thats shit and only lasted a few weeks and I absolutely locked the fark out of it.... next mod is either a kaaz or nismo centre.

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Ye that doesn't surprise me.

Ideally yes you want diff & axles. It just makes it a simple bolt in/out (once you do the centre.)

But... if you can't get the shafts, you can use your v-spec ones as they are the same length. It's just the the coupling bit that's the different length betweeen VS and non-VS (the technical name for the part still escapes me)...

I can find out the proper name and shit next week exactly and report back. I doubt you'll find a R33 non-VS rear in a couple days. I was looking for a good 2 months for one priced appropriately.

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thanks Cory, just rang JPC, they sold 3 in the last few days, more coming in a couple of weeks..

BUT they want $850 for standard diff with axles?? would you call that appropriate Ash??

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spoke to a mate in the know last night and the R32 GTR diff and axles is a touch shorter...

so I'm after a R33 GTR non-Vspec diff and axles, anyone ??

Yes they are, I have measured them as I have a R32 GTR diff. from a 1994 car to replace my A-LSD. Just need some spacers machined, from memory it is only about 5mm.

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OK I've got the Non V-spec diff and axles,

now I have a few questions about what to do regarding the hydraulics and electrics?

My thinking is, just block off the hydraulics from the pump under the car and rip everything from there to the diff out.. I'm thinking I shouldn't need to cut or disconnect any wiring (except the obvious between pump and diff) as the new diff will be locked before any signal is sent.? Being that the A-LSD is on the same circuit as the AWD I don't want to hack it and then get faults with the AWD ?

How do others do it ? What have you blocked off, cut etc?? (Nismoid)?

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The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

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The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

cool, can you also have a look and see if they blocked off the line from reservoir in the boot or just the line from solenoid to diff?I should do a DIY when I do the swap for future reference.

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Hey Ash, how are those findings coming along :)

PS,. Midnight Purple GTR is exactly the same as mine, except completely different build, but same base car.. good price with the fruit. looks well sorted.

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