Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need abit of help choosing the right gear for my motor!

Its a RB30e r31 motor with roughly 140,000 kms on the clock

im after a turbo that would be appropriate for drifting , not after a lag monster, but nothing to small? possibly only want to run 14psi max im guessing for a standard motor with a new headgasket?

Also would i get away with drifting using a rb30 gearbox? or should i try and chase up a rb25 box or VL turbo box?

And would it be worth throwing a cam in it?

Sorry in advance if this isn't the correct forum for my questions, and thanks to anyone who has help on this topic!

cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400051-rb30et/
Share on other sites

I have a 25 neodet motor coming my way next week >.> it only comes with a engine loom and computer, if i wire up a push button start system, with battery and indevidual fuel pump switch, should i be able to start the motor with just the wiring that goes with the engine??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400051-rb30et/#findComment-6356309
Share on other sites

I have a 25 neodet motor coming my way next week >.> it only comes with a engine loom and computer, if i wire up a push button start system, with battery and indevidual fuel pump switch, should i be able to start the motor with just the wiring that goes with the engine??

Yes, but you will have some fault codes. TCS/ABS at the very least. If you do not have the (ECU, not dash) boost sensor plugged into the engine loom, then a code for that too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400051-rb30et/#findComment-6356912
Share on other sites

No. Not that simple. Boost sensor is easy. TCS system is a whole 'nother story. The TCS system has its own computer that reads the wheel speed sensors and actuates the TCS throttle butterfly (upstream of the engine's normal throttle). The TCS butterfly has a position sensor on it.

When you start the R34 engine up, the engine ECU looks to see if the TCS system drives the TCS butterfly closed then open (start up self check). If it does not see that, it raises a code. Also, if the TCS computer is not present, then the ECU will raise a fault code because of the comms failure. You can only have it all work if you have a functioning TCS computer, which will probably raise fault codes of it's own if you don't have all the wheel speed sensors etc.

You can use a Nistuned ECU with a Stagea image in it (no TCS in Stageas) but my recent experience with doing so is that the automatic transmission Stagea images that are available cause driveability problems with manual Neo cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400051-rb30et/#findComment-6358692
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...