Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's a blow off valve... sits just before the throttle body on the R33 inlet pipe. It has some pipe that comes off the outlet and goes back in down near the air filter before the turbo, but after the air flow meter. It also has a small hose that goes to the inlet plenum that opens the valve when you take your foot off the accellerator

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

BOV = Blow off Valve; Basically it either releases (atmo) or re-directs (plumb-back) the pressurised air from the inlet pipes when off throttle....

in more detail:

atmo; sends the pressurised air out of the intake pipes to the atmosphere (goes wooosh... lol)

plum-back; puts the air back through the turbo.....

i thinks that's about right.... if any one wants to elaborate you're more than welcome....

OK...I said it was a stupid question!!! So i take it that the fluttering sound is bad and that i should look into fixing it.....however my blowoff valve sound like it is working OK. Also sometimes when i apply full load to the engine, my car kinda stutters and jutters and then fangs....

sounds like pinging.... dyno's are great to test all that.... most likely something simple....

as for the BOV, you can tighten them to only go off above certain pressures/revs...I've done that with mine, which makes it flutter under about 3500 RPM then go whooosh above....

R33_BO:

It sounds like you have a BOV that vents into the atmosphere. This means that when you change gears and alike your BOV realises air outside the air intake, which means that your engine thinks you have more air in the air intake then there actully is. It does this through your AFM (Air Fuel Meter, the thing Connected to your air Filter - black box thing). Not all cars have these so they can run atmospheric BOV's but unfortunatly Skylines do...

You should look into getting a stock BOV on your car and all should be fine if the BOV is your problem...

It could be other things, dirty AFM etc...

my car makes the fluttering sound just recently... it just happened after i upgraded my air filter form the standard box.. beofre i did change the air filter to a trust (airinx), it was just making thew woooshhh sound... now with the filter on, it goes tshh tshh tshh tshh... is that a bad thing?

Guest INASNT

the flutter is ok, but if u want to be fully sick and have the dut dut dut dut sound then get a nice big turbo like a 3040 run it at around 1 bar with no bov at all and u will be fully sick. I did this with mine for about 2 weeks till i found my gtr bov's. It sounds good but farks the turbo bearings and tip of the comp wheel if u run like that for a long time.

Just like everything else u will get bored of the fully sick sound after awhile

the sound youre hearing is not caused by the pod filter, but you can hear when you fitted the pod because standard box filters the noise. The flutter noise is caused by either you've blocked your bov, or you have an aftermarket bov setup with a hard spring, causing compressor surge.

my car makes the fluttering sound just recently... it just happened after i upgraded my air filter form the standard box.. beofre i did change the air filter to a trust (airinx), it was just making thew woooshhh sound... now with the filter on, it goes tshh tshh tshh tshh... is that a bad thing?

How does it go again?

the sound goes woosh shh shh shh shh... Never stalled on me, and no idle problems or nothing.. People say on the nissan silvia forums that the flutter sound is becuase when u take ur foot off the accelarator the turbine wheel spins backwards thus cutting back through the air making the flutter sound, or something like that iforgot exactly.. im so confused now lol..

mate the wheel will not spin backwards. It may slow down do to the pressure applied but turbo rewind is a myth. Think about it ur turbine is spinning over 10,000rpm for max .5 seconds when u change gears it won't cause the wheel to slow down to a halt then start spinning backwards in that amount of time. There was a really good article on autospeed about it was ages ago tho.

that's why the skyline forums is better than the silvia forums... cos at least here we know what we are talking about!!! :P

What happens is the pressure wave reflects off the closed throttle and back towards the turbo. When it reaches the turbo, the spinning wheel chops the pressure wave (also referred to as compressed air). That is the sound you hear. It could also be you BOV opening and closing (like mine does)... unless you have removed it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you get 12v at one of the relay pins with IGN on, and 12v at another for about 3 sec when you turn the key from ACC to start, then yes you can just earth the relay trigger pin. Just have a look at the top of the relay, it should tell you which pin needs earth when the 12v signal is sent (or if it's not clear, just post the pic and we can work it out). If you always have 12v at 2 pins with IGN on, they it is earth triggered by the ECU which makes it harder to fix (you really need to check the ECU pin is earthing when it should, and if so it is a wiring issue from there to the relay.
    • Tomei make a 1.5mm restrictor, I'd just use that.
    • Got the gearbox in and the front drive shafts.
    • Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
×
×
  • Create New...