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Only grabbed one caliper out of the packaging for pics, but is enough to see the general condition of the kit. Rotors are in good condition, though there is a concentric wear mark on the insides of the rotors, but nothing to be concerned about

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Gizzmo Launch Interface (IGN Cut), Gizzmo Dual stage Shift Light, Adapter Loom for RB25 $300 ono

Alcon Mono6 calipers $2400 firm

Genuine Trust T67-25G $1800 firm

Genuine Trust TD06H-25G turbo $1650 firm

Genuine NEW Tomei 82mm RB24 pistons $1150 ono

Tomei RB20DET Poncams $700ono

Tomei RB20DET / VG30DETT Valve Spring $300 ono

Volk 17" GT-P rims $1000 ono

Brembo F40 R32/33 kit $1950ono

Koyo R32 GTR replacement radiator $300ono

Rebuilt with forged internals R32 RB25DE $1700 ono

R33 RB25DET gearbox $1400 ono

R33 GTR std 444cc injectors $250 firm

R32 GTR headlights $300 ono

R32 GSTt rear calipers $180

AU Falcon electric thermo fans $80

Momo Kevlar Race Seats with head wings. Price: $700 firm for both seats

I have no idea. I bought the engine for the non VCT R32 RB25DE head, the bottom end was a bonus. But it has just been sitting around doing nothing. I will strip it in the next few weeks and get some shots and work out exactly what is inside it

  • 2 weeks later...

Lazy bump.

Cooler pipes are sold. I think the 6 pot Alcons are sold at a heavily discounted price. I have had a busy last few weeks so think I have caught up with PMs and questions

So Brembo F40s are sold.

Also found some more bits as I was digging through stuff in storage.

Exedy Hyper Multi Twin Plate Clutch. Less than 1,000kms on it and was removed due to change in gearbox type and therefore type of clutch. Suitable for an R32 GTR or R32/33 GTSt.

Asking $1,120, (Retail for ~$2,500)

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Following is the Exedy chart for the clutch

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Other random bits.

R34 GTR rear spoiler mounts - $50

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Carbon Fibre R32 rear exhaust spat - Never used but has a small defect whilst being in storage (see 2nd pic) Asking $85

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Also found today a Cusco air guide and offset licence plate mount. Plate mount is new in pacaging, guide scratches and tabs bent to mount with my JUN grille. Both are for an R32 GTR

Air Guide - $55

Licence Plate Mount - $85

CF Exhaust shroud now sold.

Update of parts still available:

Gizzmo Launch Interface (IGN Cut), Gizzmo Dual stage Shift Light, Adapter Loom for RB25 $280ono

Alcon Mono6 calipers $2200 ono

Genuine Trust T67-25G $1800 ono

Genuine Trust TD06H-25G turbo $1650 ono

Genuine NEW Tomei 82mm RB24 pistons $1150 ono

Tomei RB20DET Poncams $700ono

Tomei RB20DET / VG30DETT Valve Spring $300 ono

Volk 17" GT-P rims $1000 ono

Koyo R32 GTR replacement radiator $300ono

R33 GTR std 444cc injectors $250 firm

R32 GTR headlights $300 ono

R32 GSTt rear calipers $180

AU Falcon electric thermo fans $80

Momo Kevlar Race Seats with head wings. Price: $700 firm for both seats

RB20 gearbox and Xtreme Puck Clutch - $500 Box has 210,000kms on it and clutch has 50,000kms. Box has done plenty of work but still shifts as good as any high km 20 box and recommend drivign my car before purchasing as it is still in the car. Either the box is a freak box to have lasted as it is or I am easy on gearboxes

  • 2 weeks later...

Now also for sale my TD05H-18G with 3" inlet. Its a Kando, new and never used. This stuff is being sold as work plans OS means pet projects are all being scrapped.

It has a Subaru core so is 360deg bearing with water cooled core and oil lube

TD05H-18G

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Asking $540 for the turbo with no exhaust housing or $750 with the Trust 8cm rear housing (3 bolt)

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  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
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