Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After long thought the time has come to upgrade to a 34gtr vspec..

so up for sale is my

1989 BNR32GTR

Awarded "Best R32" of SAU Nationals 2011

I consider it immaculate for its age

EXTERIOR:

Gunmetal Grey

Full NISMO bodykit

Tinted Windows

custom tow hook

INTERIOR:

NISMO 320kph dash & Guages (reading 128,000km)

Alpine sound system with sub & ipod connection

GTR floormats

APEXI Power FC

ATTESA AWD/RWD switch with torque adjustor

Climate control mounted in centre console

RUNNING GEAR:

R34 GTR RB26DETT 165psi across all 6cyl (oct 2011) 105,000kms

rebuilt head with Tomei adjustable Camshafts, Tomei Cam gears

Greddy timing belt, NISMO injectors, Garrett GT2860-7's Z32 AFM's

Rebuilt Gearbox with Redline oil used (oct 2011)

NEW NISMO super coppermix twin plate clutch (oct 2011)

Custom made AM PERFORMANCE dump pipes/stock cat and HKS cat back

Whiteline Swaybars

NISMO strut bars

Rebuilt brake calipers with drilled and slotted RDA discs

new pads

K&N oil catch can

Huge radiator

FMIC (sprayed black)

walbro fuel pump

NEW BC coilovers (Sept 2011)

Stock wheels with brand new TOYO T1r's

Stock GTR seats good condition

light weight Duralinium wheel nuts

Premium plates

All receipts have been kept for the work done on the GTR - most of which happened within the past 12 months

and total well over the asking price!

6 months registration

$650 recently spent at Japanese Motor Sports for a service etc.

currently running 247kw @ 14psi and now ready for a 300kw+ tune

always run on bp ultimate and warmed up/cooled down

no leaks or any signs of mechanical wear due to all the new expensive parts.

PRICE: $21,900 as above

other items that can be included in the sale for extra $

2x Brand new Bride style Gias II buckets $750

Brand new deep corn Nardi leather steering wheel $280

AM performance decat pipe and full catback twin pipe system $400

Brand new set of ROTA Grid R wheels 18X9.5+20 with good 90% tires $1200

or lot for $23,500

and open to swaps plus cash for r34 gtr (other swaps considered too)

non-smoker

Car speaks for itself

only bad points:

slight bubble in dash (passengers side)

Subwoofer cuts in and out on bumpy roads (wiring)

chip in drivers side rear side skirt up under the wheel

dash de-mist vent cover missing

stock steering wheel is worn

Air conditioning is uninstalled (weight reduction!!)

car was purchased from VU here on the forums and was entered in this years all japan day

- nothing to hide so feel free to call me on 0411 768 931 for any questions and any inspection welcome

car located in ADELAIDE SA

post-80026-0-44817100-1337255692_thumb.jpgpost-80026-0-01138100-1337255711_thumb.jpgpost-80026-0-86378000-1337255725_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-29065300-1337255784_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-88485700-1337255762_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-28469400-1337255805_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-73774900-1337255836_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-63690200-1337255852_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-43614400-1337255878_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-20085300-1337255911_thumb.jpg

more pics on request via mms

Edited by APE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...