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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

i heard the spc rear bolts tends to have play thus causing alignment to go out of spec after a while, so until the prob is fixed i think it'd be better to consider other options such as SPL. Perhaps someone else might be able to organise another GB with SPL or something else as im pretty flat out recently. sorry to keep u guys hanging but i wouldn't want this to go ahead anyhow knowing there's a problem with the product.

mods please /thread. ta

i heard the spc rear bolts tends to have play thus causing alignment to go out of spec after a while, so until the prob is fixed i think it'd be better to consider other options such as SPL. Perhaps someone else might be able to organise another GB with SPL or something else as im pretty flat out recently. sorry to keep u guys hanging but i wouldn't want this to go ahead anyhow knowing there's a problem with the product.

mods please /thread. ta

Not sure where you heard that info about the bolts, anyways I've just ordered these arms off Amazon for less than $210 delivered.

Looking at Cusco front arms next. Bit pricier than the SPC ones but look like a better option.

Anyone running Cusco's ?

  • 4 months later...

did this end up going anywhere?

I can see just by looking down the side of my car that the fronts have way too much neg camber, and probably explained why my last set of tyres were trashed on the inner shoulder. I am looking at front camber arms (already have SPL rears) - is this group buy a go?

Has anyone done any more researche into the SPL knocking issues on the fronts? Last thing I want is to ruin the ride.

It sounds like you already have, raise it up a little...

Don't think so - I'm on Tein h-tecs which are only a 15mm front/8mm drop over factory - they are the most subtle drop you can get.

When I say ride, I am referring to clunks and thumps that loose ball joints and wandering bushes will cause. Read some shocking reviews on Ichiba arms detailing this.

Obviously I'll be doing a wheel alignment when the new rims arrive - but a set of camber arms is cheaper than replacing as set 245/30/20's every 5000kms - so I'm doing my research.

But thanks for your concern!

thanks sean, have you got a set?

yeh - this car won't be getting track work. It was purely about saving tyres and getting as close to factory specs as possible.

more or less just wanted something with solid quality - adjustment that wouldn't back out over time - and quality bushes and ball joints (nothing sh1ts me more than clunking and knocking suspension parts.) I couldnt find a bad review on these.

With the BC coilovers on their way, whiteline swaybars front and rear, SPC rear camber arms and toe bolts - the A-arms are the final piece of the puzzle.

Plan is to sit the car bang on 100mm of clearance to keep it legal and then dial all the arms in to factory spec with instructions to make the tyres last as long as possible whilst still clearing the gaurds. Now to find someone who can dial it all in!

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Nah mate i've got SPC camber arms, i went for the cheaper option as i found in my research the SPL arms were mainly used for track use but are overall a better build.

Me too! I have just recently got my right front comp rod bush changed and i've still got a slight clunk after i lowered my car and i can't work out what it could be. Either control arm bushes or ball joint. I know my shocks are farrrked though.

Nice, that's a really good setup whiteline sway bars are very common and can't go wrong with BC coils.

Good luck man, i'm sure there's plenty of people down that way who know suspension.

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