Jump to content
SAU Community

Straight To The Point - S2 Stagea Rotors


C34S2STAG
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I have looked through a few threads and can't seem to find the best option for front rotors to use on my Stagea. I don't want to convert to another system such a R34GTT, so does anyone know what rotors to use for the stock front? I have looked for DBA and RDA rotors however I can't find anything that fits the measurements of my stock disc. My model is a 2001 S2 manual C34 and I would prefer slotted and no modifications such as maching them down to fit. I have heard 350Z rear disc can fit on the front? Not sure what's what these days with so many different opinions lol.

The measurements are

290mm Diameter

48mm height

68mm center

28mm thickness

Thanks in advance for your help

So what was the verdict on the whereabouts of these rotors?

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the correct rotor can be purchased from Greenline:

Thanks for your enquiry. Pricing information as requested:

DIXCEL PD Disc Rotor (Front) WGNC34 RB25DET 99 AWD (3212013 PD): 14,553 yen (Special)

Shipping: 25,100 yen

TOTAL: 39,653 yen AU$515

DIXCEL SD Disc Rotor (Front) WGNC34 RB25DET 99 AWD (3212013 SD): 21,483 yen (Special)

Shipping: 25,100 yen

TOTAL: 46,583 yen AU$605

Rotors are 290x28mm (Height: 49.2mm).

Dixcel are soon to have distributor open their doors (next month) in NSW so hopefully pricing is better.

Any contact details on this greenline company?

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have r33 4 spots on the front and twin spots on the rear ,standard r33 discs front and rear and they just bolt straight up .

Front bolts on the stagea calipers are 14 mm and the r33 are 12mm but that's the only difference, If you want slotted rotors they are readily available

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I have r33 4 spots on the front and twin spots on the rear ,standard r33 discs front and rear and they just bolt straight up .

Front bolts on the stagea calipers are 14 mm and the r33 are 12mm but that's the only difference, If you want slotted rotors they are readily available

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have r33 4 spots on the front and twin spots on the rear ,standard r33 discs front and rear and they just bolt straight up .

Front bolts on the stagea calipers are 14 mm and the r33 are 12mm but that's the only difference, If you want slotted rotors they are readily available

Hi, how r u? Did u said the r33 front rotor and rear rotor will straight bolt on to S2 stagea 99 without any modify? Thx
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, how r u? Did u said the r33 front rotor and rear rotor will straight bolt on to S2 stagea 99 without any modify? Thx

You need to get sleeves to fit the smaller bolts. 12mm instead of 14mm.

From memory either Scotty or Daleo can supply the sleeves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I didn't worry about the difference in bolt diameter as 2mm is bugger all , they have been there for years now and never had any problems ,only have to trim the backing plate a little on the rears , done 4 sets now on different stageas and all the same ,same on the race car with 550 hp ,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think last I checked it was 35cm from fender to wheel center. I heard u can go up to 45-48cm before handling his impacted. But I need to check again. I know I was about 1.2 cm off being close to max recommended. 
    • You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.
    • Suspension Component Question Looking for some feedback based on people's experiences! I know this has been loosely covered in other threads but I can't find any direct answers/experience. I'm up for some bush/rod replacements and was interested in a hybrid approach between hardened rubber and pillowball kit. Why not choose one or the other? Well, this is for my daily driver, which I track once or twice a year. I like a stiff car and a sporty feel but I don't want to compromise the chassis too much with 100% pillowball gadgetry.  I know from experience and a tonne of reading that not all components affect ride quality in the same way - eg. in my case, coilover top mounts should be hardened rubber as pillowball transfers way too many undesirable qualities and doesn't have much more upside than a good hardened rubber. But, pillowball tension rods translate to much better turn-in/steering response and make the car significantly sharper, without negatively impacting ride quality in a significant way.  I'm not TOO bothered by NVH (to a degree). So, with context out of the way, does anyone have any experience with a hybrid approach as mentioned above? I'm going to replace all components over time so am seeking guidance on: - front tension rods - upper camber arms - rear lower control arm - rear traction rod - rear upper camber arm - rear toe adjuster rod  Secondly, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or any other info/wisdom that I might not be considering. Cheers 🫶
    • That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it. 
    • The stock one will outperform any aftermarket standard position exhaust manifold. If you don't believe me, do a back to back test (same turbo, same boost, same timing) and you'll be super surprised.
×
×
  • Create New...