Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Best advice would be leave it as it is because they build the cars as a package rather than just bolting shiny stuff on and hoping for the best.

If you're dead keen on more power, 2.8 is really the way to go.

Dont stress the AFM's - the ones you have are certainly not cheap and while yes it's better to have MAP in some people's opinion (including mine), you'll be spending money on that swap for no real gain in HP. For example, if you take the AFM's out and sell them you'll get about $700, and then about the same for the PFC (it has a super expensive tune on it now which will be thrown away), so lets say around $1400. Now, you'll need to buy another ECU so lets say you get the Link G4 which is popular thesedays, thats $1850 inc the map sensor it needs as the on board one doesnt read high enough. So you're out of pocket $450 at this stage. Now, go have the board put into a stock casing which you'll have to find from someone (say $50 or slab of beer), then map sensor installed into the engine bay, then tuned, you'll spend at least $1000 on that being done by someone who knows what they're doing. So, $1450 approx spent and all you've done is delete the AFM's which are the best on the market anyway.

Wait, sorry it's got Vcam - forget the tune being cheap

It could have a stock fuel pump in there, but if I had to guess I'd guess a Nismo pump.

It's going to be running 1 bar boost given how they do their boost control. You could change the actuators to higher ones from GCG or have the current ones loaded to open at a different pressure. Have a look at the actuator arms and take a picture if you can, see if they're dead straight or if there is a bend in them. Of course any change to boost will require tuning

Also if you want to get rid of that exhaust one day, there's heaps of guys in Sydney that would be keen

Don't think it has the stock fuel pump.. the one in there makes some noise (squirt squirt every 3-4 seconds).

If it is indeed running 1 bar boost then it has a f**kload of potential left in it!

When full boost is hit, the MFD reads 1.4 bar (from memory) and starts flashing red however, that could just be the limitation of the MFD..

I'll have a look next time on the Apexi AVCR to get the exact reading.

Out of curiousity, why do Racepace choose to not run EBCs?

Wait, sorry it's got Vcam - forget the tune being cheap

It could have a stock fuel pump in there, but if I had to guess I'd guess a Nismo pump.

It's going to be running 1 bar boost given how they do their boost control. You could change the actuators to higher ones from GCG or have the current ones loaded to open at a different pressure. Have a look at the actuator arms and take a picture if you can, see if they're dead straight or if there is a bend in them. Of course any change to boost will require tuning

Also if you want to get rid of that exhaust one day, there's heaps of guys in Sydney that would be keen

Edited by r0bstr_

Learn something new every day, excellent!

The previous owner states it is only displaying boost and speed only.. interesting.

Anyway of checking the AVCR to see if it is controlling the boost?

Overall, I'm in a similar predicament to you so I'll be following you're thread closely. I'm at the limits of the stock engine now saving up for the next step. I'm actually going backwards by quietening the exhaust for the baby...

AVCR - enjoy: http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf

Cheers dude!

Overall, I'm in a similar predicament to you so I'll be following you're thread closely. I'm at the limits of the stock engine now saving up for the next step. I'm actually going backwards by quietening the exhaust for the baby...

AVCR - enjoy: http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf

Don't think it has the stock fuel pump.. the one in there makes some noise (squirt squirt every 3-4 seconds).

If it is indeed running 1 bar boost then it has a f**kload of potential left in it!

When full boost is hit, the MFD reads 1.4 bar (from memory) and starts flashing red however, that could just be the limitation of the MFD..

I'll have a look next time on the Apexi AVCR to get the exact reading.

Out of curiousity, why do Racepace choose to not run EBCs?

Just because the fuel pump makes a noise doesn't mean it's any specific one. It's time for you to open the fuel tank up and look inside! Let the tank get almost empty though, it's no fun when there's fuel in the tank (some is unavoidable of course but what I mean is dont fill the tank up then stick your hand in)

Sorry, 1 bar actuators will mean a minimum of 1 bar (close enough to 15psi). Check the AVCR though to be sure. There may be a PFC boost control kit in there but i highly doubt that.

RP set the actuators to the boost level wanted and thats that - no need to spend money on EBC's and spend time on setting them up etc. Look at how many cars they've done like that and how well those cars have performed and they've definatley proven EBC's arent needed :)

Thanks dude, will def have to do that

Just because the fuel pump makes a noise doesn't mean it's any specific one. It's time for you to open the fuel tank up and look inside! Let the tank get almost empty though, it's no fun when there's fuel in the tank (some is unavoidable of course but what I mean is dont fill the tank up then stick your hand in)

Sorry, 1 bar actuators will mean a minimum of 1 bar (close enough to 15psi). Check the AVCR though to be sure. There may be a PFC boost control kit in there but i highly doubt that.

RP set the actuators to the boost level wanted and thats that - no need to spend money on EBC's and spend time on setting them up etc. Look at how many cars they've done like that and how well those cars have performed and they've definatley proven EBC's arent needed :)

Racepace don't use EBC's, it's not strange at all :)

ahhh. learn something new everyday...

Just because the fuel pump makes a noise doesn't mean it's any specific one. It's time for you to open the fuel tank up and look inside! Let the tank get almost empty though, it's no fun when there's fuel in the tank (some is unavoidable of course but what I mean is dont fill the tank up then stick your hand in)

Sorry, 1 bar actuators will mean a minimum of 1 bar (close enough to 15psi). Check the AVCR though to be sure. There may be a PFC boost control kit in there but i highly doubt that.

RP set the actuators to the boost level wanted and thats that - no need to spend money on EBC's and spend time on setting them up etc. Look at how many cars they've done like that and how well those cars have performed and they've definatley proven EBC's arent needed :)

Maybe a call to the previous owner or racepace might save some time and labour...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I highly rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...