Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a rattle in my stock R33 S1 steering wheel for about 6mths, then 1 day as I turned into a driveway it started going off. From then on, everytime I turned my steering wheel to half-lock it would trigger the horn.

If you have an airbag wheel you will need to go to an Import specialist to remove the airbag and fix the contacts.

The rattle is the white plastic horn button inside the steering wheel shattering into pieces due to age. Open up your wheel and its centre pieces, try go get all the pieces back and glue them with supa glue and some magic tape to hold them together, that will do the job.

thanks guys, there is a rattling in there so i should check it out, but i aint gonna do it myself cos it has an airbag, dont want that shit goin off prematurely.

i have an alarm, its a mongoose one so that could be it, but ill take into an airbag specialist.

anyone know of any good ones in melbourne??

my horn went off in the middle of the night n woke my whole court up, got in the car and pressed the horn and it stopped... the next morning I took off my steering wheel to find a bug inside pretty much dead (still twitching a little shortin the contacts) Must've squished it when I pressed the horn... farken thing....

rs73, its a bit more complicated then that, you have capacitors that store charge (if you have an acco, you need a charge to set the bags off - so if you battery leads are chopped off the bag has still gotta deploy), Some cars you have to unplug it at the module, some let you unplug it at the wheel.... but its up to you

Sumo

P.S. how are you gunna test the horn if you dont have the battery hooked up?

P.S. how are you gunna test the horn if you dont have the battery hooked up?

Easy! Before you test the horn, reconnect the battery.

I was talking about disconnecting the battery only whille opening the steering wheel just to check if the plastic horn button is shattered inside. That is if the airbag system doesn't have that capacitor you mentioned about. Since you know about it so now it's a different case. As I said in my post ask around to ppl who knows as I never had airbags before so dunno how they work. I take no responsibility if the owner of the car decide to open the steering wheel without knowledge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...