Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

most coilovers for stagea are just gtr ones with s14 rear top plates and they dont work PROPERLY. i wouldnt suggest stock gtr shocks either as there is alot of difference between a coupe and a wagon. chase up KYB with the part number stamped on the shocks. if that doesnt work you may have to get a set of stockers refurbished. id suggest teins or genuine nismo stuff as its the only shocks made to suit stagea.

What's the problem with the function of the majority of coilovers Ray?

called KYB aus distributor today, straight up NO on anything JDM. Im thinking ill just leave it for now and figure something out another day when i have some spare cash or when something pops up cheap. genuines were quoted at $190ea front, $330ea rears and that's trade!

You need to go to a better distributor, i got genuine KYB replacement shocks for an r33 off the shelf from a distributor in brisbane. I would guess they could get stagea ones if u have the part no. off them. If ur interested i'll look for the name.

Edited by Raysboostin

What's the problem with the function of the majority of coilovers Ray?

Not so much function, as the setup doesnt suit the application. Out of the ones ive tried the rears are just never right. Ive spent alot of time and money changing springs and making adjustments which amounted to very little. The valving of the shocks on a wagon are not the same as a coupe, so the gtr rears dont really work. But its really relative to use. If u never carry anything in the back or go to the track u prob wont notice the inbalance. Your better off spending the money on a set ofcoilovers designed for a stagea. Rather than a cheap generic set adapted to bolt into anything.

You need to go to a better distributor, i got genuine KYB replacement shocks for an r33 off the shelf from a distributor in brisbane. I would guess they could get stagea ones if u have the part no. off them. If ur interested i'll look for the name.

thanks, i found some Tein struts pretty cheap, if fulcrum ever get back to me, they'll be heading there for servicing then in they go

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...