Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So I have purchased a Series 3 Rb26dett from Blitz off this forum for my R32 Gtst and have a few questions mainly in regard to ECU and tuning.

As far as making life easy for my mechanic and tuner what it going to be the best ECU to use. Bearing in mind I'm not chasing and large numbers and will be content with just knowing the engine is safely tuned.

I live in the Gold Coast/ Brisbane region and have never had an aftermarket ECU so don't know any tuning places either if someone can suggest and ECU and tuner to go with it?

My mechanic did make mention of going a complete stand alone unit rather than a piggy back set up for ease of wiring is this the case and if so which units should I look at?

My last question would be apart from having the turbos rebuilt what other preventative maintenance would be good to undertake while the engine is out of the car excluding timing belt, tensioners, pumps? ( These will be done anyway )

Thanks in advance for your replies!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401767-33-rb26-into-32-gtst-questions/
Share on other sites

Mate, keep it simple.

Make sure the engine is in good condition, replace all the consumables/service parts and do any work while the engine is out. I wouldn't go replacing the oil pump, just the externals.

I would pop a tomei baffle in the sum once you have modified it (removed front diff).

Have a look at haltech for ecu. Normally I'd say use the stock ecu with a nistune, but if you don't have the stock ecu or loom then starting from scratch would cost the same, install will be easier and you can loose the afm's and standard ign module.

Cheers

Justin

Sydking - Thanks I had thought that but I don't know any tuners in my area either so thought that I would put the question out.

XRATED - Thanks and good idea on the baffle I had not thought of that yet, do the R33 26's suffer from the same problems as the R32 26's with oil rushing to the head???

As for the Haltech suggestion that is what I had been considering, would the E11v2 be suitable for this application or should I throw the extra coin into the Platinum series..??

Thanks again for the responses.

Edited by LowgZ

I can't understand the love for Haltechs on this forum.

I would choose Nistune over Haltech any day of the week, unless I was desperate for additional functionality that you can't get from the original ECU/Nistune. And even then, I'd still not choose Haltech.

My mechanic/tuner was only relating to me today yet another Haltech horror story about trying to tune a Supra with a Haltech. And Haltech's advice was to replace the ECU, on the basis that that whole range of ECU had a very poor reluctor system.

Even buying an RB26 ECU to start with is only going to add $150 to the price of the overall system.

The ViPEC / Link thingos seem to be reasonably popular without too many hateful reviews. You could look into that option.

Get an RB26DETT ecu and loom and Nistune it. If your engine is basically stock then the base map should get you running and you will be able to look around for someone to tune it later if your local tuner can't

GTSboy - I hadnt read anything bad about the Haltechs and considering the price tag would assume they were a good unit thats interesting to hear. Will do some more investigation into alternate options as well.

KiwiRS4T - That was my original thought but after weighing up cost of parts, install & tune VS stand alone ECU, install & tune I decided after market was the way to go.

None the less thanks again for input all.

Haltech are no more unreliable than any other aftermarket ecu. Most of the time it's the 'human' interface that causes the issues.... Hell Haltech are standard equipment in some low volume manufacture new cars!

By the time you buy a loom, retrofitt it to the gts-t, buy a stock ecu, afm's, sensors and nistune. An aftermarket ecu would be a better option.

Yes 33's have the same oiling issues as 32's. Oil in the rocker covers is a separate issue to oil surge that baffles can help avoid. Because you will have the sump off all ready, have your fabricator but a -10 fitting (then run a -10 hose into your catch can) on the intake side of the sump, above the oil level- this will help reduce the pressure build up in the sump that adds to the oil staying in the rocker covers. Also make sure the origional baffles/gauze are still installed in the rocker covers and vent the breathers into a well ventilated catch can. This as well as a sump baffle should stop most of your oiling issues.

As I said before, do as much as you can while the engine is out and apart.... It's ALOT harder to do in the car.

Cheers

Justin

I agree with sydking, i would go with what your tuner knows how to tune effectively. If he aint comfortable using the software/ hasnt used that particular ecu before etc, it could take him some time to figure out all the ins and outs which means $$$ spent on the dyno and his time cost also.

how did you go with the conversion to rear wheel drive out of curiousity ie converting the sump. i only ask cos i was going to do the same conversion last year but my mechanic/tuner recommended a 25 instead which is what i went for. interested to see the outcome.

while its all out id definitely be getting a timing belt kit (this includes the belt, tensioners, seals etc), depending of condition of rear main bearing seal id prob replace that too.

im assuming your replacing the clutch to suit??? remember if you cant replace a clutch yourself its prob bout 4 hours worth of labour you'll eventually pay for. if you replaced to s suitable clutch now while its all out you save time and money.

try do a cost comparison on rebuilding the turbos vs. upgraded. this should give you some idea whether it is more feasible to replace them now.

basically unless you cant do things like bolt on upgrades yourself, its more cost effective to have everything you would like done at once. if you can hold off for a few more weeks, months id be waiting, buying parts and getting everything done while the conversion is happeneing. its so much easier to work on an engine on the ground out of the car.

hoping all goes to plan with the rebuild mate and love to see the outcome

cheers

mick

Edited by mii11x

RATED - Thanks for all the info surrounding the oil issues ill make sure these are addressed prior to the engine going in, im not in a hurry with the build and just want things done once and properly hence all the questions.

GTR260 - Again thanks for the info ill give him a call and discuss options for tuning.

mii11x - In regard to the conversion my mechanic ( Ben @ 4wd & performance, Nerang ) has done a few and knows a workshop that manufacturers all the bits and pieces required for the sump modification so with that in mind I went with the 26 rather then the 25.

Yeah I was thinking of having a chat with Mr Turbo on the coast as well in regard to this dilemma as a decent set of twins will be around the $2500 mark but relistically I just want reliable, responsive turbos that can push 280kw on reasonable boost levels. Thats why I thought the rebuild kits to N1 specs would suffice.

As for the clutch this is definately getting done again though this is another conversation I need to chat to a specialist about as I dont know what the best clutch will be for the application.

Ill throw up a build thread shortly its just getting its front end straightened our so if any one has a 32 nose cut let me know I am in desperate need of one!!!

Thanks everyone for your input.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...